The Dancers

The machines Fairy Ring sends work to / a guide to each, with every part

Fairy Ring designs the thing. The dancers make it. Each of these is a cheap machine, or a head for one you already have, that takes one kind of job from Fairy Ring: veneer cut files, wax prints, grow molds, joinery, glue lines, scans. Every one comes with the parts to buy, the files to print and cut, and the steps to build it.

23machines
$5,914to build them all
1pipeline
0bought yet

In the ring

Tap a machine / or see where each one sits in the Fairy Ring pipeline

Drag QueenDrag QueenVeneer cutterQueen BeeQueen BeeWax printerMotherMotherMycelium moldsLady LinerLady LinerLayout lines and templatesMortishaMortishaJoinery toolpathsLathe MinnelliLathe MinnelliTurning profilesMud DivaMud DivaClay and concrete coresSlip KittenSlip KittenPlaster molds to slip-castPour DecisionsPour DecisionsConcrete and resin pours to settleSkin TightSkin TightVacuum-formed trays and coversCher BendCher BendBending forms cut from a curveBog WitchBog WitchLiving moss panelsHot FlashHot FlashBake, burnout and drying schedulesFlex AppealFlex AppealVeneer and bent-lamination pressesHoney GlazeHoney GlazeGlue lines and finish passesSandra PaperSandra PaperSanding passesGlow DivaGlow DivaGlow fill pathsCane-DaceCane-DaceWeaving patternsVogueVogueScans of objects, molds and partsHandmaidenHandmaidenPlate swaps and sheet loadingDusty SpringfieldDusty SpringfieldWhich gates to openMoisture MadameMoisture MadameBoards to dry and weighLazarellaLazarellaFailed prints and wax scraps

How Fairy Ring sends work to each machine →

Drag Queen

Fairy Ring pipeline / Cut and draw / gets veneer cut files

Drag Queen on the xTool frame, laser on

A gantry diode laser already knows how to follow a vector file. Drag Queen swaps the burning for cutting: a 3D-printed head holds a swivel drag knife on a small linear rail, and a 12 V solenoid, switched by the laser’s own signal, pushes the blade down whenever the “laser” turns on. Springs lift it when it turns off. So any laser software cuts veneer straight from an SVG, on a bed that takes a full 36 × 18 in sheet.

Laser off / Exploded
Laser offExploded

How it works

Laser off: blade up / laser on: blade down

Side by side: laser off with the blade up, laser on with the blade down
  1. Laser off. Two return springs hold the knife block up, so the blade clears the veneer on travel moves.
  2. Laser on. The PWM signal switches the MOSFET board, which powers the solenoid. The plunger drives the knife block down the MGN9 rail.
  3. Cutting. A compression spring between plunger and block sets the pressure. The swivel blade trails and steers itself; a small script adds the corner swivels and overcut.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Marquetry panels
Every leaf of a pattern cut from one SVG, ready to tape up and glue.
Inlaid box lids
Veneer shapes for a lid like the moth doctor's case.
Lampshades
Thin veneer cut flat, then rolled into a shade.
Cork, felt and leather
Drawer liners and tray pads cut to the exact pocket.
Stencils
Card or mylar masks for paint, stain and Honey Glaze.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Inlay pairs Fairy Ring sends the same outline to Drag Queen (the veneer) and Mortisha (the pocket), offset by the blade, so the two fit without fitting.
  2. Veneer-faced mycelium Lay a cut veneer face in a Mother mold before packing and the mycelium grows onto its back. A light panel with a wood face. To test.

Recipes

Veneer / laser settings / glue-up

Veneer on the laser

Cut it clean, keep it flat
You need
Paper-backed veneerEasiest; cuts cleanly and doesn't splitstart here
Raw veneerFlatten first if it's wavyspray, press, dry
SettingsRun a test grid on each new flitchpower / speed grid
Method
  1. Flatten wavy veneer: mist with veneer softener or water, press between paper and boards overnight.
  2. Tape the sheet down with low-tack tape so air assist can't lift it.
  3. Cut a test grid first. Use the lowest power that cuts through on one pass.
  4. Mask the face with transfer tape if the smoke stains it.
  5. Lay the pieces on the backer, glue with Honey Glaze, press in Flex Appeal.
If it goes wrong
Scorched edges
Too much power, too slow. Raise air assist.
Small pieces fall through
Add tabs, or cut on a honeycomb with a paper underlay.

Never leave a laser running. Keep a fire extinguisher by it and the lid shut.

What to buy

Eleven parts from Amazon / one of each / prices as carted, November 2026

Longer Ray5 10W laser engraver01Longer Ray5 10W laser engraver$280.43The motion system: frame, belts, steppers, controller and power supply. Its laser output becomes the blade signal.View on Amazon →F.L.S drag-knife holder + 15 blades02F.L.S drag-knife holder + 15 blades$16.99The cutter. A Roland-style swivel blade that trails behind the holder and steers itself round curves.View on Amazon →uxcell MGN9 rail + MGN9H carriage03uxcell MGN9 rail + MGN9H carriage$12.79The up-and-down guide the knife block rides on.View on Amazon →12 V push-pull solenoid, 10 mm stroke0412 V push-pull solenoid, 0.39 in stroke$9.99Pushes the blade down whenever the laser is on.View on Amazon →Dual MOSFET trigger boards (5)05Dual MOSFET trigger boards (5)$7.99Lets the laser’s PWM signal switch 12 V to the solenoid.View on Amazon →1N5819 Schottky diodes (100)061N5819 Schottky diodes (100)$7.99One goes across the solenoid to soak up the kick when it switches off.View on Amazon →Spring assortment, 400 pcs07Spring assortment, 400 pcs$16.99Two return springs lift the blade; one compression spring sets cutting pressure.View on Amazon →M3 screw and nut kit, 960 pcs08M3 screw and nut kit, 960 pcs$14.99Holds the whole head together.View on Amazon →WAGO 221 lever nuts (12)09WAGO 221 lever nuts (12)$12.45Tool-free wiring splices.View on Amazon →SENTK self-healing mat, 24 × 36 in10SENTK self-healing mat, 24 × 36 in$27.99The cutting surface. Takes a full 36 × 18 in veneer sheet.View on Amazon →Krylon Easy Tack spray11Krylon Easy Tack spray$12.49Repositionable tack that holds veneer flat on the mat.View on Amazon →

What to print

Five parts / SLS Nylon 12, white / Xometry, at list price

The knife head exploded, every part labeled
Base plateCarries the rail and bolts to the gantry$49.58
Knife blockSplit clamp round the blade holder, rides the carriage$37.40
Solenoid bracketHolds the solenoid over the block$29.59
Plunger cap, 0.28 inPresses the pressure spring$7.84
Plunger cap, 0.12 inSame, for a 0.12 in plunger$7.89
Printed parts$132.30

Nylon 12 is stiff enough: blade drag on veneer is a few newtons. The one thing to watch is heat at the solenoid, which is why the blade runs at S600–700 instead of full power. The adapter plate that joins the head to the Ray5 is cut on the machine itself, so it costs nothing.

Price breakdown, build steps, settings and the build kit

Price breakdown

$553.39 before tax / prices change, so check the links

Ray5 gantry51%$280.43
Knife head hardware13%$71.75
Printed parts (list price)24%$132.30
Mat and tack7%$40.48
Electronics5%$28.43
Amazon subtotal$421.09
Total$553.39

Build it

Nine steps / an afternoon once the parts are in

  1. Build the Ray5 from its manual and check it moves and lasers normally in LightBurn or LaserGRBL.
  2. Bolt the MGN9 rail to the printed base plate. The holes are slotted so you can square it. Slide the carriage on.
  3. Clamp the blade holder in the knife block with an M3 screw across the split, then bolt the block to the carriage.
  4. Zip-tie the solenoid into its bracket, press the plunger cap on, and screw the bracket to the top of the base plate.
  5. Fit the compression spring between cap and block (blade pressure), and hook the two return springs from block to bracket (blade lift).
  6. Wire the laser’s PWM output to the MOSFET trigger, 12 V through the MOSFET to the solenoid, and the 1N5819 across the solenoid, stripe to +. Splice with WAGOs.
  7. Cut the adapter plate on the Ray5 itself while the laser head is still on, then mount the knife head beside it or in its place.
  8. Lay the mat on the bed, tack the veneer down, and set the blade so the tip clears one veneer thickness plus a hair.
  9. Draw cut lines in red, run svg2dragknife.py in.svg out.gcode --power 650, and send the G-code.
The knife head close up, blade up
The V-wheels riding in the V-slot track

Settings

GRBL and G-code / LightBurn or LaserGRBL

$32=0
Laser mode off while cutting, so the solenoid stays on through moves. $32=1 to laser again.
M3 S650
Blade down at 60–70 % power: enough to pull the solenoid in without cooking it. M5 lifts.
G4 P0.15
Short dwell after M3 (and 0.12 s after M5) so the blade fully drops or lifts before moving.
F1500
About 0.98 in/s to start. Two light passes beat one heavy one on figured veneer.
0.25 / 0.059 in
Blade offset for a 45° blade, and overcut to close shapes (script defaults).
The whole machine from above, with a veneer sheet on the mat

Build kit

STL and STEP files, CAD source, the G-code script, GRBL settings and full build instructions / 4.2 MB zip

Download the build kit ↓

Queen Bee

Prints beeswax from a heated syringe

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets wax prints for casting

Queen Bee

A 30 mL syringe in a heated jacket, pushed by a lead-screw stepper, on a cheap Ender-3 V3 SE. It prints beeswax or jeweler's injection wax as a soft paste at 136 to 149 °F, and the printer runs it like any hotend. A failed print goes back in the syringe, or through Lazarella.

How it works

Jacket cold / Jacket at 144 °F

Jacket cold / Jacket at 62 °C
Jacket coldJacket at 144 °F
  1. Load. Melt wax at 158 to 167 °F, draw it into the syringe, let it cool to a paste in the heated cradle.
  2. Print. Filament diameter set to the bore, 0.854 in, and 400 E-steps: one mm of E is one mm of plunger, so the slicer's volume math just works.
  3. Cast or keep. Beeswax as the object, or a wax for a foundry. Fine jewelry goes to castable resin instead.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Threaded jars and caps
Cosmetic and balm jars with a screw lid, printed body and cap alike.
Jewelry cases
A small wax box with a threaded or friction lid, or a pattern for one cast in metal.
Lost-wax patterns
Pendants, pulls and small sculpture for a foundry or a jeweler.
Lighting
Wax shades and diffusers that glow when lit from inside.
Candles with structure
Lattice and hollow forms a mold can't make.

Threads in wax

CAPJARCOARSE PITCHabout 0.16 in, a fat 60° or round profileCLEARANCEabout 0.024 in a side for a ~0.039 in beadTWO TO THREE TURNSenough to hold, quick to closePRINT BOTH UPRIGHTsame jacket temperature, no casting shiftStarting points to test on Queen Bee, not proven values.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Threads in beeswax Beeswax holds a thread well enough to screw a cap on. Printing both halves, rather than casting them, keeps the cap and body lined up.
  2. Lost-wax channels in concrete Print a wax core, set it inside a Mud Diva or K pour, melt it out, and you're left with clean internal channels for lamp wiring or a drain. To test.
  3. Waxed mycelium Dip a finished Mother piece in the Queen Bee pot to seal it against moisture. To test.
  4. Remelt everything Failures and supports go back into the syringe, or through Lazarella.

Recipes

Waxes / temperatures / what happens after the print

Pure beeswax

For the object itself: jars, lids, threads, lamp shades

Beeswax prints best as a soft paste just below its melting point, not as a liquid. Filtered cosmetic-grade pellets are the easy start; raw comb wax works once it is strained.

You need
Beeswax pelletsYellow or white, cosmetic grade, filteredabout 30 g per syringe
MeltWater bath or a wax pot on its thermostat158 to 167 °F
Print jacketHeld in the heated cradle136 to 149 °F
Layer / lineStart here and tune0.024 in / 0.039 in
Speed / fanSlow, and fan full on so each layer sets0.31 to 0.59 in/s / 100%
Method
  1. Melt the wax to 158 to 167 °F and pull it into the syringe with the plunger out of the module.
  2. Seat it in the cradle and let it fall to the jacket set point. Wait until a test push gives a bead that holds its round shape.
  3. Slice with filament diameter 0.854 in so one mm of E pushes one mm of plunger.
  4. Print onto painter's tape or a cold glass plate. Leave the first layer slow.
  5. Let the part cool on the bed for ten minutes before you lift it. Warm beeswax bends.
If it goes wrong
Bead slumps and spreads
Jacket too hot. Drop 36 °F at a time.
Bead cracks or tears
Jacket too cold, or the paste has air in it. Raise 34 °F, and remelt the syringe slowly.
Layers don't stick
Fan too strong for a big part, or the previous layer has gone fully cold. Slow down less, or print two parts at once so each layer waits less.
Bloom (white haze) a day later
Normal for beeswax. Buff with a soft cloth or a few seconds of warm air.

Melt wax in a water bath or on a thermostat, never over an open flame. Wax smokes well before it burns: if it smokes, it is too hot. Never put water on a wax fire; cover it.

Casting blend

Beeswax and injection wax, 80 / 20

Pure beeswax is soft and sticky for a foundry. A fifth of jeweler's injection wax makes it stiffer, cleaner to handle and sharper on edges, while it still prints at nearly the same temperature.

You need
BeeswaxFiltered80% by weight
Injection waxAny jeweler's injection or carving wax, pellets20% by weight
Melt and stirUntil fully clear, then hold167 °F
Print jacketA few degrees above pure beeswax140 to 151 °F
Method
  1. Weigh both waxes cold. Melt the injection wax first, then add the beeswax.
  2. Stir for two minutes after it goes clear, and pour a thin test disk to cool.
  3. If the disk is greasy, add 5% more injection wax. If it chips, add 5% more beeswax.
  4. Pour the batch into a silicone ice tray. Label the cubes with the ratio and date.
  5. Fill syringes from the cubes. Every batch gets the same temperature sweep as pure wax.
If it goes wrong
Blend separates in the syringe
It was not hot or stirred long enough. Remelt to 167 °F and stir.
Wax tears off the sprue
Too much beeswax for the job. Go to 70 / 30.

After the print: three ways to metal

Hand-off lanes A / B / C
You need
A: wax paste, this machineBig, soft-edged parts. Pulls, knobs, hooks, ornaments.foundry
B: PolyCast filamentPrinted on any FDM printer. Smooth, burns out clean.foundry
C: castable resinFine jewelry and thin detail, on a resin printer.caster
Method
  1. Print, then fix tiny defects with a warm needle or a hot-air pen.
  2. Attach a wax sprue at the thickest point. Fairy Ring marks where.
  3. Weigh the wax. The metal will weigh about the wax times the metal's density over wax's, roughly ×10 for bronze and ×11 for silver.
  4. Send it to a casting service or a local foundry with the weight and the metal named.
  5. Every failed print goes back in the syringe, or to Lazarella.
If it goes wrong
Foundry says it's too thin
Walls under about 0.039 in in wax rarely fill. Thicken in Fairy Ring and reprint.

The remelt loop

Nothing wax gets thrown out
Method
  1. Keep a lidded tin by the printer for brims, strings and failed prints.
  2. Remelt in the water bath, pour through a coffee filter or fine cloth to take out tape and dust.
  3. Cast into labeled cubes by type: pure, 80 / 20, mixed.
  4. Mixed scrap is for candles, firelighters and wood paste wax, not for casting.

Wax on a hot plate or in a microwave can overheat in one spot and flash. Water bath, every time.

What to buy

11 parts / $413.39 before tax / estimates, check the links

Creality store01Creality Ender-3 V3 SE$199.00The printer that carries the WX-1 syringe headView on Creality store →StepperOnline02NEMA17 stepper with built-in T8 x 5 7/8 in lead screw + brass nut$34.45Drives the plunger; T8 lead gives 400 E-steps/mmView on StepperOnline →30 mL Luer-lock syringes, 10-pack0330 mL Luer-lock syringes, 10-pack$10.00The wax barrel (BD 30 mL, 0.854 in ID)View on Amazon →Brostown stainless blunt tips, 12-pack (includes 1/4 in 14 and 18 ga)04Brostown stainless blunt tips, 12-pack (includes 1/4 in 14 and 18 ga)$8.00Qty 1 pack · NozzlesView on Amazon →24 V 30 W polyimide film heater, 45 x 100 mm (6-pack): wrap one round the barrel, with the head's 100k NTC taped under it0524 V 30 W polyimide film heater, 1 3/4 x 3 15/16 in (6-pack): wrap one round the barrel, with the head's 100k NTC taped under it$12.00Heated jacket on the barrel, runs off the hotend portView on Amazon →6 mm x 300 mm chrome-plated linear rods, 2-pack060.24 in x 11 13/16 in chrome-plated linear rods, 2-pack$20.00Qty 2 · Pusher guidesView on Amazon →3DJake07ruthex M3 heat-set inserts (100) plus M3 screws$14.00Holds the printed parts togetherView on 3DJake →Polymaker08Polymaker ASA 0.069 in, 1 kg$22.99For the two parts that touch the heated jacketView on Polymaker →Stakich white beeswax pellets, cosmetic grade, 2 lb09Stakich white beeswax pellets, cosmetic grade, 2 lb$24.95Print stockView on Amazon →Jets Inc10Ferris Magna-Ject injection wax beads, 1 lb$18.00Jeweler's wax testView on Jets Inc →Ultimate 3D Printing Store11Polymaker PolyCast 0.069 in, 750 g$50.00Lost-wax parts on the existing printers, for the jeweler round tripView on Ultimate 3D Printing Store →
4 optional extras
Elegoo US01Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra resin printer (optional)$429.00Only if fine jewelry is the goal after the PolyCast testView on Elegoo US →Siraya Tech02Siraya Tech Cast resin, 1 kg (optional)$62.00Castable resin for rings and pendantsView on Siraya Tech →Elegoo03Elegoo Mercury Plus V2.0 wash and cure station (plus IPA, gloves, respirator) (optional)$160.00Qty 1 set · Needed with any resin printerView on Elegoo →reach.dog04Mahor V4 pellet extruder (optional)$725.00For continuous runs once the wax recipe is provenView on reach.dog →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Queen Bee, exploded
Backplate cradleASA or PC, 4 walls, 40% gyroid. Touches the heated jacket.9.88 in³
Clamp strapASA or PC. 4 x M3 x 30 into heat-set inserts.3.7 in³
Motor bracketPETG or ASA.1.9 in³
PusherPETG. T8 nut bolts on top, plunger pad sits in the cup.1.09 in³
Build steps
  1. Print the cradle and strap in ASA, the motor bracket and pusher in PETG; press in heat-set inserts.
  2. Cut the 0.24 in rods to 5 1/4 in, slide the pusher on, bolt the T8 nut to it.
  3. Wrap the barrel in the heater pad and aluminium tape and clamp it in the cradle.
  4. Measure the Ender's head plate, bolt the module on, plug heater and thermistor into the hotend ports and the motor into the extruder port.
  5. Send M92 E400, M302 S0 and M303 E0 S62, then M500.
  6. Sweep the jacket from 133 to 147 °F until a bead holds its shape under the fan.
  7. Print a 0.79 in hollow cylinder, then a threaded jar.

Mother

Grows mycelium in printed molds, in any shape you design

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets grow molds

Mother

Not just tubes. Anything designed in Fairy Ring, a tray, a bowl, a lidded box, a stool, becomes a two-part PETG grow mold: Fairy Ring picks the pull direction so nothing undercuts, and turns a tray's inside into a press plug. The tray above was designed in Fairy Ring. Pack it with mycelium by weight, keep it warm in a tote, and the camera wall tells you when it has gone fully white. Demold, let it skin over, bake it dry.

How it works

Day 0 / Day 9

Day 0 / Day 9
Day 0Day 9
  1. Pack by weight. Every mold gets a target gram figure from Fairy Ring and a tamper levels it. Too dense and it starves.
  2. Grow. 4 to 5 days at 72 to 75 °F in a tote on an Inkbird and a heat mat, vents taped. The webcam scores how white each mold is.
  3. Dry. Demold, a day or two for skin, then bake and weigh until steady. Dowel holes grow in 0.012 in undersize so they grip.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Trays and bowls
A Fairy Ring-designed tray, like the one above: the lower half is packed, a press plug forms the inside.
Lidded boxes and jewelry cases
A lidded box gets two molds, one for the base and one for the lid.
Stools and seats
Thick sections grown at 0.79 in walls, light and strong in compression.
Packaging inserts
A grown nest that fits a Queen Bee jar or a tool exactly.
Tube kits
Grown elbows, straights and Y pieces joined by dowels.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Grown-in hardware Set dowels, threaded inserts or magnets in the mold and the mycelium grips them as it grows. To test.
  2. Embossed surfaces Press a Mortisha-carved plug in to texture the grown face.
  3. Sealed with wax A dip in Queen Bee's wax pot for pieces that will meet moisture. To test.

Recipes

The grow / day by day / and how to dry it

The grow, day by day

From bag to finished part in about two weeks

Mycelium is the root network of a fungus. Fed on hemp hurd or other ag waste inside a mold, it knits the loose fibre into one solid piece. Kill it with heat and it stops growing and stays that shape. The grow kits (GIY material) come pre-inoculated, so the shop never handles spores.

Calendar
Day 0Hydrate the material in its bag. Seal it. 72 to 75 °F.
Day 1 to 4Let it go fully white in the bag. No peeking.
Day 4Break it up, add flour, pack the molds by weight.
Day 5 to 9Molds in the tote, vents taped. The camera scores the white.
Day 9Fully white: demold.
Day 10 to 11Uncovered, it grows a velvet skin.
Day 12Bake dry. Weigh until steady. Done.

Pack mix

For every Mother mold
You need
Grown GIY materialFully white, broken to pea size with clean gloved handsFairy Ring's gram figure
Plain white flourFresh food for the regrow after the break-up1 tbsp per 1 lb (450 g)
MoldsPETG halves, wiped with 70% isopropyl alcoholtwo halves and a plug
ToteLidded, a heat mat underneath on an Inkbird72 to 75 °F
Method
  1. Wipe the bench, the tamper and the molds with isopropyl and let them dry.
  2. Weigh each half to its target. Fairy Ring sets it from the mold's volume.
  3. Press with the tamper until it's level with the rim, firm but not crushed. Corners first.
  4. Close on the pins, tape the vents with micropore tape so it breathes but stays clean.
  5. Into the tote. Don't open it for the first three days.
If it goes wrong
Too loose, crumbly part
Pack more grams, or tamp the corners harder.
Too dense, slow, brown middle
It starved for air. Fewer grams, and check the vents are open under the tape.
Patchy, white only in spots
The material dried. Mist the bag before packing next time and keep the tote lid on.

Drying it dead

Two schedules, test both

Drying does two things: it stops the fungus for good and it takes out the water that makes it soft. A part that is still growing will keep fuzzing, and a damp one will mold.

You need
Low and slowOven or Hot Flash180 °F for 4 to 8 h
Air then hotAir dry 1 to 2 days, then200 °F for 30 min
Done whenWeight stops falling between two checks an hour apartsteady
Method
  1. Weigh the part straight out of the mold and write it on tape on the part.
  2. Bake, then weigh every hour. A typical part loses well over half its weight.
  3. When two weighings match, it's dry. Let it cool on a rack.
  4. Seal if it will see water: shellac, beeswax paste, or Honey Glaze's oil pass.
If it goes wrong
Soft after baking
Not dry yet. Back in for an hour.
Cracked
Dried too fast. Air dry longer first, or drop to 160 °F.
Warped
Bake it on a flat rack, or back in its open mold half.

What to watch for

Clean grows, and when to bin it
If it goes wrong
Green, blue, black or pink spots
Contamination (mold). Bag it and bin it outside. Don't open it indoors. Clean the tote with isopropyl.
Small mushrooms on the surface
It's happy and too wet or bright. Pull them off and dry it sooner.
Yellow liquid beads
Normal stress. Leave it.
Sour smell
Bacteria. Usually too wet or too warm. Bin it.
Slow white
Under 70 °F. Check the Inkbird probe sits in the tote, not on the mat.

Wear a dust mask when breaking up dry material and when sanding finished parts. People with mold allergies or weak immune systems should not handle open grows.

What to buy

8 parts / $178.98 before tax / estimates, check the links

grow.bio01grow.bio GIY kit (first try, includes instructions)$35.00First growView on grow.bio →grow.bio02grow.bio GIY dehydrated mycelium material, 3 lb$20.00Packing material for the moldsView on grow.bio →Inkbird03Inkbird ITC-308 temperature controller$42.00Holds the tote at 72-75 °FView on Inkbird →Vivosun04Vivosun seedling heat mat 10 x 20.75 in, 2-pack$26.99Heat source under the toteView on Vivosun →Ace Hardware05Sterilite 56 qt clear latching storage box$25.99The grow chamberView on Ace Hardware →3M Micropore paper tape 1 in x 10 yd, box of 12063M Micropore paper tape 1 in x 10 yd, box of 12$7.00Covers the mold ventsView on Amazon →Digital scale 3 kg x 0.1 g07Digital scale 3 kg x 0.1 g$12.00Pack each mold by weight, not feelView on Amazon →Hardwood dowels 3/8 x 12 in, 25-pack08Hardwood dowels 3/8 x 12 in, 25-pack$10.00Qty 1 pack · Joins the grown tube piecesView on Amazon →
2 optional extras
Inkbird01Inkbird IHC-200 humidity controller (optional)$45.00Only if the tote dries outView on Inkbird →Target02Cuisinart TOB-260N1 convection toaster oven (optional)$140.00Dry and kill step; a home oven works for the first runsView on Target →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Mother, exploded
Any shape you designSay “make the mother mold” on any Fairy Ring model: it writes both halves, the press plug, pins and vents, and the grams to pack. The tube molds below are the starter set.Fairy Ring
Elbow: lowerPETG, 3 walls. Print parting face down.5.86 in³
Elbow: upperPETG, 3 walls. Print parting face down.5.83 in³
Elbow: core pinPETG, print 2 per mold. Flange outside the end wall.0.2 in³
Elbow: tamperPLA or PETG.1.54 in³
Straight: lowerPETG, 3 walls. Print parting face down.7.57 in³
Straight: upperPETG, 3 walls. Print parting face down.7.55 in³
Straight: core pinPETG, print 2 per mold. Flange outside the end wall.0.2 in³
Straight: tamperPLA or PETG.1.54 in³
Build steps
  1. Hydrate the GIY material and grow it in its bag at 72 to 75 °F until fully white, 3 to 4 days.
  2. Break it up, add flour, pack each half to its target grams, level with the tamper.
  3. Close the halves on their pins, tape the vents, 4 to 5 days in the tote.
  4. Demold when the webcam says fully white.
  5. Leave it uncovered 1 to 2 days to grow a skin.
  6. Bake: test 180 °F for 6 h against 200 °F for 30 min after air drying. Weigh until steady.
  7. Fit the dowels and check holes, walls and weight.

Lady Liner

Pen + scribe plotter head for a diode-laser gantry (layout, templates, veneer marking).

Fairy Ring pipeline / Cut and draw / gets layout lines and templates

Lady Liner

Lady Liner turns a hobby diode laser into a pen plotter and layout scribe. Where the laser would fire, a pen (or a carbide scribe) drops onto the work and draws. It marks marquetry layouts on veneer, draws full-size templates on hardboard or ply, and scribes cut lines and reference marks on stock, all from the same SVG or LightBurn files used for cutting.

How it works

Pen up / Pen down

Pen up
Pen down
  1. A tiny Arduino reads the laser's PWM signal and turns it into a servo angle: off lifts both tools, low power drops the pen, high power drops the scribe.
  2. Each tool rides its own MGN7 rail and lands under its own weight, like a pen plotter, so pressure stays even on warped veneer.
  3. The head bolts on with Drag Queen's 1 9/16 x 2 15/16 in swap plate, so the same laser frame can cut, draw or glue.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Marquetry layouts
The full pattern drawn on the backing sheet before a single cut.
Furniture templates
Full-size legs, curves and joinery on hardboard, from the Fairy Ring model.
Knife lines on stock
The scribe marks dovetails and shoulders far more accurately than a pencil.
Drawings and signage
Technical-pen drawings and labels on paper, ply or finished veneer.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Etched brass plates Draw a resist ink onto brass or copper sheet, etch it in ferric chloride, and you get a maker's plate or a hinge plate with your drawing sunk into the metal. To test.
  2. Paint masks Scribe through masking tape on a panel, peel the pieces you want painted, and the edges come out as crisp as the scribe line.

Recipes

Pens / scribes / what draws on what

Use it for: Layout lines on veneer, full-size templates on hardboard, scribed cut lines on stock.

Materials

  • Sakura Pigma Micron 01 to 08 for veneer and paper
  • 0.02 in mechanical pencil in a 0.39 in sleeve for anything that will be finished
  • Carbide scribe for cut lines on hardwood
  • Low-tack tape to hold veneer flat

Settings

SettingValue
Pen speed2,000 to 3,0 in/min (Pigma), 1,19.7 in/min on raw veneer
Scribe speed800 to 1,7.87 in/min, two passes
Laser power valueS300 = pen down, S800 = scribe down, S0 = both up
Pen pressureGravity only, about 20 g; no springs
Dwell150 ms after a tool drops, set as a G4 P0.15 in LightBurn's start-of-cut

Steps

  1. Tape the veneer to a flat sheet of MDF on the laser bed, grain running along X.
  2. Load the pen, cap off, and zero the frame at the work's corner.
  3. In LightBurn, put pen lines on one layer at S300 and scribe lines on another at S800, both in Line mode.
  4. Run a 2 in test square in a corner; check the line is solid and the corners meet.
  5. Run the job. Pens first, scribe last, so the scribe never drags ink.
  6. Lift the tape slowly, away from the drawn lines.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Dotted or skipping linesSlow down 30% or add the dwell; veneer fibres catch the tip at speed.
Pen drags between shapesThe servo is slow to lift: raise the travel-move delay to 200 ms.
Ink bleeds into the grainUse a pencil on open-grain species (oak, ash) or seal with a light shellac coat first.
Scribe tears veneerUse the pen on veneer; save the scribe for solid stock.

Safety

  • Laser OFF: the servo uses the laser's PWM, so keep the diode module unplugged while Lady Liner is on.
  • Keep fingers clear of the carriage during jogs.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What draws on what

Pens and scribes
You need
Pigma or fine-linerVeneer and paper. Doesn't bleed.pen
0.02 in pencilLayout on wood you'll sand.pen
Carbide scribeHard, crisp cut lines on stock and metal.scribe
Method
  1. Zero the pen on the surface with a sheet of paper under it.
  2. Test on scrap: S300 should touch, not press.
  3. Run at 78.7 to 118.1 in/min for pens, slower for the scribe.

What to buy

7 parts / $99.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

Beffkkip MG90S metal-gear micro servo, 2-pack01Beffkkip MG90S metal-gear micro servo, 2-pack$18.00Qty 2 · One in use, one spareView on Amazon →HiLetgo Nano V3.0 USB-C, 3-pack02HiLetgo Nano V3.0 USB-C, 3-pack$16.00Reads laser PWM, drives the servoView on Amazon →LM2596S buck converter with voltmeter, 4-pack03LM2596S buck converter with voltmeter, 4-pack$9.0024 V to 5 V for the Nano and servoView on Amazon →uxcell MGN7 rail 100 mm + MGN7H carriage04uxcell MGN7 rail 3 15/16 in + MGN7H carriage$24.00Qty 2 · One per toolView on Amazon →Amazon05Spring-steel (music) wire assortment 0.012 to 0.118 in, 15 3/4 in lengths (use the 0.059 in)$7.00PushrodsView on Amazon →Sakura Pigma Micron, black, assorted points, 6-pack06Sakura Pigma Micron, black, assorted points, 6-pack$15.00Layout pensView on Amazon →General Tools 88CM carbide scribe07General Tools 88CM carbide scribe$10.005/16 in shank or trimmed to fitView on Amazon →
1 optional extras
Sculpfun01Second laser frame (optional, so Drag Queen stays a cutter) (optional)$209.99Sculpfun S9 5.5W; 16 x 16 9/16 in area. Any GRBL diode laser worksView on Sculpfun →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Lady Liner, exploded
Adapter plate0.24 in birch ply or acrylic. Carriage holes are placeholders: MEASURE the laser's head plate.cut
Base platePETG/ASA, flat on its back, 4 wallsprint
Pen carriagePrint upright, slit vertical. Pen bore 0.413 in (fine-liners, Pigma, 0.5 mech pencil in a sleeve).print
Scribe carriagePrint upright. Bore 0.323 in for a carbide scribe / 5/16 in pin vise.print
Servo bracketPrint on its back. Screws to the base plate top.print
RockerPETG. Press onto the servo's single-arm horn.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 3 to 4 hours plus printing Skill: Easy: printing, a little soldering

Tools

  • 0.098 in hex key
  • Soldering iron
  • Multimeter
  • Small pliers for the music wire

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x Diode laser frame to carry the head (already owned)
  • 1 x Second laser frame (optional, so Drag Queen stays a cutter) (optional)
  • 2 x MG90S metal-gear micro servo
  • 1 x Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)
  • 1 x LM2596 buck converter
  • 2 x MGN7 rail 3 15/16 in + MGN7H carriage
  • 1 x Music wire 0.059 in
  • 1 x Sakura Pigma Micron set
  • 1 x Carbide scribe
  • 1 x M2/M3 screws and nuts (already owned)

Made:

  • laser/adapter_plate_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/ll_base_plate.stl (printed)
  • stl/ll_pen_carriage.stl (printed)
  • stl/ll_scribe_carriage.stl (printed)
  • stl/ll_servo_bracket.stl (printed)
  • stl/ll_rocker.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Adapter

Drill the laser-side holes in the ply adapter to match your laser carriage (MEASURE first), then bolt it on.

3. Rails

Screw the two MGN7 rails to the base plate with M2 screws and a drop of threadlocker; slide the carriages on.

4. Tool holders

Clamp the pen in the left carriage and the scribe in the right. Each should drop freely under its own weight.

5. Servo and rocker

Press the MG90S into its bracket, centre it at 90 degrees with the Nano, then press the printed rocker onto the horn level. Bend two 0.059 in music-wire pushrods with Z-bends at both ends.

6. Mount

Bolt the head to the adapter on Drag Queen's 1 9/16 x 2 15/16 in swap pattern.

Wiring

  • Laser PWM out to Nano D2 (through a 1k resistor) and ground to ground.
  • Laser 24 V to the LM2596 in; set it to 5.1 V before connecting anything.
  • Buck 5 V to Nano 5V and the servo red; servo signal to D9.

Firmware

  • Flash lady_liner.ino (reads PWM duty with pulseIn on D2; below 10% = up, 20 to 50% = pen, above 60% = scribe).
  • In LightBurn set the laser's max S to 1000 and enable 'Constant power' for the pen layers.

First test

  1. Jog to a scrap, send S300 M3: the pen drops. S800: the scribe drops. M5: both lift.
  2. Draw a 3 15/16 in square and measure it: within 0.012 in means the frame is square.

Mortisha

A laser-frame style router gantry for joinery (mortises, box joints, dados, small tenons).

Fairy Ring pipeline / Cut and draw / gets joinery toolpaths

Mortisha

Mortisha is a small router built like the open diode-laser frames, then given teeth. She cuts mortises, box joints, dados and small tenons in hardwood with a 300 W spindle, using the same GRBL controller and LightBurn workflow as the lasers. A front end-clamp holds boards upright so she can cut into their ends.

How it works

Spindle off / Spindle on

Spindle off
Spindle on
  1. A doubled 2040 beam rides V-wheels on two Y rails; a laser-cut aluminium Z plate carries MGN12 rails, a T8 lead screw and a 2 1/16 in ER11 spindle.
  2. Boards lie on the spoilboard for mortises and dados, or hang in the front clamp for box-joint fingers and tenon cheeks.
  3. The Fairy Ring CAD engine (or LightBurn for 2D) writes the G-code; the joint sizes come from the drawing, so the parts fit.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Box joints
Fingers cut into board ends held in the front clamp.
Mortises and small tenons
For frames, stools and the pm case.
Dados and grooves
Shelves, drawer bottoms and floating panels.
Inlay pockets
Recesses for Drag Queen's veneer and for hardware like hinges.
Carved relief
Textured panels and drawer fronts from a height map.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Bucks for Skin Tight Carve an MDF relief, then vacuum-form over it: a tray that matches a carved lid.
  2. Texture plugs for Mother A carved plug pressed into the mold embosses the grown surface.

Recipes

Bits / feeds / joints that fit

Use it for: Mortises, box joints, dados and small tenons in hardwood; end-grain cuts with the board in the front clamp.

Materials

  • 1/8 in and 1/4 in 2-flute upcut carbide end mills (Whiteside RU1600 and RU2100)
  • Hardwood: maple, cherry, walnut, white oak
  • MDF spoilboard, surfaced flat on the machine

Settings

SettingValue
Spindle speed12,000 rpm (300 W spindle at full speed)
1/8 in upcut23.6 to 31.5 in/min feed, 0.039 in depth per pass, 0.02 in plunge
1/4 in upcut900 to 1,7.87 in/min, 0.079 in per pass
Stepover (pockets)40% of diameter
Finishing pass0.008 in on walls for a glue-line fit
Fit allowanceMortise +0.004 in per side over the tenon

Steps

  1. Surface the spoilboard with the 1/4 in bit, 0.012 in deep, 50% stepover.
  2. Clamp the work: flat on the spoilboard with the printed dogs, or upright in the end clamp for box joints.
  3. Zero X/Y on the corner and Z on the top with a paper feeler.
  4. Load the job from Fairy Ring (it exports joinery as G-code with ramps).
  5. Cut with the vac on; pause and clear chips every 0.2 in of depth in deep mortises.
  6. Square the corners with a chisel or round the tenons to match.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Burn marksFeed too slow or bit dull; raise feed 20% or replace the bit.
ChatterTighten the V-wheel eccentrics and the spindle clamp; reduce depth per pass.
Loose jointsMeasure the actual bit (they run 0.001 to 0.002 in small) and set it in the tool table.
Lost steps on YBelt tension or too much acceleration; set 19 11/16 in/s2.

Safety

  • Eye and ear protection, every cut.
  • Never reach in while the spindle turns; use the e-stop.
  • Clamp everything; a loose part becomes a projectile.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

Bits and feeds

Light cuts, many passes
You need
1/8 in upcutBox joints and small mortises0.02 in per pass
1/4 in upcutWider mortises and dados0.039 in per pass
FeedStart slow and listen19.7 to 31.5 in/min
Method
  1. Clamp the stock in the end clamp or to the spoilboard.
  2. Zero on the top face with a paper feeler.
  3. Cut one test joint in scrap of the same wood.
  4. Adjust the fit in Fairy Ring (it widens slots in 0.002 in steps) and cut the real ones.

Eye and hearing protection. Never reach in while the spindle turns.

What to buy

12 parts / $475.99 before tax / estimates, check the links

2040 V-slot extrusion, black, 4 x 1000 mm: cut 500 + 450 from two bars and 600 from the other two012040 V-slot extrusion, black, 0.16 x 39.4 in: cut 500 + 450 from two bars and 600 from the other two$55.00Frame and doubled X beamView on Amazon →POM V-slot wheel kits with eccentric spacers, 10-pack02POM V-slot wheel kits with eccentric spacers, 10-pack$24.00Qty 16 · Gantry and X carriageView on Amazon →StepperOnline03NEMA17 17HS19-2004S1$48.00Qty 4 · X, dual Y, ZView on StepperOnline →Kingroon04Makerbase MKS DLC32 controller$28.00GRBL/FluidNC, same family as the lasersView on Kingroon →BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.3 drivers, 4-pack05BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.3 drivers, 4-pack$16.00Quiet, cool driversView on Amazon →SainSmart06Genmitsu 300 W ER11 spindle with supply$99.992 1/16 in, 0 to 48 VView on SainSmart →MGN12H rail 300 mm + carriage07MGN12H rail 11 13/16 in + carriage$40.00Qty 2 · Z axisView on Amazon →T8 lead screw 300 mm set with anti-backlash nut and coupler08T8 lead screw 11 13/16 in set with anti-backlash nut and coupler$12.00Z driveView on Amazon →GT2 9 mm belt + 20T pulleys09GT2 0.35 in belt + 20T pulleys$18.00X and YView on Amazon →SendCutSend10Laser-cut 0.24 in 6061 plates (Z, X carriage, 2 Y sides)$70.00From the DXFs hereView on SendCutSend →Whiteside RU1600 1/8 in upcut (pair with RU2100 1/4 in)11Whiteside RU1600 1/8 in upcut (pair with RU2100 1/4 in)$25.00Joinery bitsView on Amazon →Mean Well LRS-350-24 supply, limit switches, e-stop12Mean Well LRS-350-24 supply, limit switches, e-stop$40.00View on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Mortisha, exploded
X carriage plate0.24 in 6061 aluminium (SendCutSend or similar), or 0.47 in Baltic birch for the first build.cut
Motor mountPETG. Bolts to the X carriage plate top edge.print
Z plate0.24 in 6061 aluminium.cut
Nut blockPETG, 6 walls. Holds the T8 anti-backlash nut.print
Spindle clampASA or PC-CF, 8 walls, 60% infill, slit vertical. Fits a 2 1/16 in spindle; 2 x M5 pinch bolts.print
Corner bracketPETG, 8 needed, 100% infill or 6 walls. M5 T-nuts.print
Y side platex2, 0.24 in aluminium. Carries 4 V-wheels each and the Y NEMA17 (dual Y).cut
End clamp jawx6, 0.24 in ply, glue 3 into an 11/16 in jaw (2 jaws). Front vertical clamp for box joints and tenons.cut

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 10 to 14 hours plus printing Skill: Medium: frame alignment, GRBL setup

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Square
  • Dial indicator (optional)
  • Crimp tool for JST and Dupont

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x 2040 V-slot extrusion, 6 lengths (2 x 500, 2 x 600, 2 x 450)
  • 16 x V-wheel kits (wheel, bearings, spacers)
  • 4 x NEMA17 17HS19-2004S1
  • 1 x Makerbase MKS DLC32 controller
  • 1 x TMC2209 drivers, 4 pack
  • 1 x Genmitsu 300 W ER11 spindle with supply
  • 2 x MGN12H rail 11 13/16 in + carriage
  • 1 x T8 lead screw 11 13/16 in + anti-backlash nut + coupler
  • 1 x GT2 0.35 in belt 16.4 ft + 20T pulleys + idlers
  • 1 x Laser-cut 0.24 in 6061 plates (Z, X carriage, 2 Y sides)
  • 1 x Upcut end mills 1/8 and 1/4 in
  • 1 x 24 V 10 A supply, limit switches, e-stop
  • 1 x Baltic birch 11/16 in (spoilboard) and 0.24 in (jaws) (already owned)

Made:

  • laser/mt_x_carriage_plate_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/mt_motor_mount.stl (printed)
  • laser/mt_z_plate_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/mt_nut_block.stl (printed)
  • stl/mt_spindle_clamp.stl (printed)
  • stl/mt_corner_bracket.stl (printed)
  • laser/mt_y_side_plate_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/mt_end_clamp_jaw_6mm.dxf (laser)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. The aluminium Z plate goes to a SendCutSend-style service or is cut from 0.24 in ply on Drag Queen for a first version. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Frame

Bolt the 2040 Y rails to the base, square to each other within 0.02 in over the diagonal.

3. Gantry

Mount the doubled X beam on the printed gantry plates; adjust the eccentric V-wheels until there's no play but they still turn by hand.

4. Z axis

Screw the MGN12 rails to the Z plate, fit the nut block and T8 lead screw, then the spindle clamp.

5. Spindle

Clamp the 2 1/16 in spindle with its nose 1 3/16 in below the clamp; tighten the two pinch bolts evenly.

6. Belts and motors

Fit GT2 0.35 in belts on X and Y, tension to a low twang.

Wiring

  • MKS DLC32: X, Y, Z drivers; limit switches to the endstop inputs; e-stop in series with the spindle supply and on the controller's e-stop input.
  • Spindle on its own 48 V supply with PWM from the DLC32's spindle output.

Firmware

  • GRBL: $100/$101 = 80 steps/mm (GT2 20T, 16 microsteps), $102 = 400 (T8x2... 800 for T8x2 at 16 microsteps; check your screw).
  • $110/$111 = 3000, $112 = 600, $120/$121 = 500, $130/$131/$132 = 400/300/60.

First test

  1. Draw a 7 7/8 in square with a pen in the collet: diagonals equal within 0.012 in.
  2. Cut a 0.39 in mortise in pine and fit a test tenon before any hardwood.

Lathe Minnelli

Small CNC wood lathe for legs, pulls, knobs and dowels.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Cut and draw / gets turning profiles

Lathe Minnelli

Lathe Minnelli turns. A printed headstock on two 2040 rails spins a 3-jaw chuck through a belt from a 775 motor, and a two-axis carriage brings a carbide tool in along a profile Fairy Ring draws as a half-section. Legs for the cabinets, pulls, knobs, finials and dowels come out matching every time.

How it works

Blank / Turned

Blank
Turned

In these renders: Lathe chuck model by takeboncog, CC BY 4.0 via Sketchfab.

  1. Mount a square blank (up to 2 in) in the chuck and bring up the tailstock's live centre.
  2. Start the spindle (about 1,500 rpm for 1 9/16 in stock) and run the roughing passes, 0.039 in at a time, then a 0.008 in finish pass.
  3. Sand it while it spins, part it off, and move on. The same file makes the next one identical.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Legs, pulls, knobs, finials, dowels and tool handles.

Materials

  • Maple, cherry, walnut, ash; straight grain, dry (under 10% MC)
  • Blanks squared to 1 9/16 to 2 in, 2 in longer than the part for chucking and parting

Settings

SettingValue
Spindle speed2 in stock: 1,200 to 1,500 rpm; 0.98 in: 2,000 rpm; slow down if it vibrates
Roughing0.039 in depth per pass, 15.7 to 23.6 in/min
Finishing0.008 in, 7.87 in/min
Tool0.47 in square carbide insert, centre height exactly on the axis
TailstockAlways on parts longer than 2 x diameter

Steps

  1. Mark the blank's centre on both ends; knock the corners off with a plane for blanks over 1 9/16 in.
  2. Chuck one end, bring up the live centre and lock it.
  3. Zero X on the blank's surface (touch off) and Z on its end.
  4. Run the roughing passes, then the finish pass.
  5. Sand 150 to 320 while spinning at low speed; apply oil or shellac friction finish.
  6. Part off with a thin tool or saw off and finish the end by hand.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Chatter marksToo fast or tool above centre; check tool height, slow down.
Tear-out on end grainSharp insert, lighter final cut, sand.
Blank flies outChuck jaws too shallow; chuck at least 0.98 in and use the tailstock.
Steps not to sizeCheck X steps per mm with a test cylinder.

Safety

  • Face shield, not just glasses.
  • Stand out of the line of the spinning blank when starting.
  • No gloves, loose sleeves or long hair near the chuck.
  • Check the blank for cracks and knots before turning.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

15 parts / $348.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

K11-80 3-jaw chuck, 80 mm01K11-80 3-jaw chuck, 3 1/8 in$45.00Holds the blankView on Amazon →775 DC motor 24 V + PWM speed controller02775 DC motor 24 V + PWM speed controller$25.00Spindle driveView on Amazon →6205-2RS bearings, 2-pack036205-2RS bearings, 2-pack$10.00SpindleView on Amazon →25 mm steel shaft 200 mm040.98 in steel shaft 7 7/8 in$15.00Spindle (have it threaded for the chuck)View on Amazon →HTD-5M belt 350 mm, 15 mm wide05HTD-5M belt 13 3/4 in, 0.59 in wide$9.00Spindle beltView on Amazon →MT1 live centre06MT1 live centre$18.00TailstockView on Amazon →12 mm carbide insert turning tool070.47 in carbide insert turning tool$20.00CutterView on Amazon →T8 lead screw 300 mm + nut + coupler, 2 sets08T8 lead screw 11 13/16 in + nut + coupler, 2 sets$22.00X and ZView on Amazon →MGN12H rail 150 mm + carriage09MGN12H rail 5 7/8 in + carriage$15.00Cross slideView on Amazon →NEMA17 stepper, 40 mm10NEMA17 stepper, 1 9/16 in$24.00Qty 2 · X and ZView on Amazon →MKS DLC32 V2.1 controller11MKS DLC32 V2.1 controller$45.00GRBL/FluidNC, same family as the lasersView on Amazon →24 V 10 A supply (Mean Well LRS-250-24)1224 V 10 A supply (Mean Well LRS-250-24)$30.00Motors and controllerView on Amazon →2040 V-slot, black, cut to length132040 V-slot, black, cut to length$28.00Qty 2 · FrameView on Amazon →V-wheel kits, 20-pack14V-wheel kits, 20-pack$22.00CarriagesView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg15PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Lathe Minnelli, exploded
HeadstockPETG-CF, 6 walls, 40% infill. Bearing seats for 6205-2RS at both ends.print
Spindle pulleyPETG-CF HTD-5M 36T pulley, keyed to the spindle.print
Motor pulley12T, press-fit on the 0.2 in shaft.print
Motor mountprint
TailstockPETG-CF. Quill bore for a MT1 live centre adapter; printed cam lock below.print
Tail handwheelprint
CarriagePETG-CF on four V-wheels; T8 nut pocket underneath.print
Cross slideprint
Tool postPETG-CF; two M8 set screws clamp a 0.47 in tool.print
Controller boxprint

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 12 to 16 hours plus printing Skill: Medium to hard: the spindle needs a machinist for the chuck thread

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Bearing press or vice
  • Reamer for 2 1/16 in seats (or careful sanding)
  • Dial indicator

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x K11-80 3-jaw chuck, 3 1/8 in
  • 1 x 775 DC motor 24 V + PWM speed controller
  • 1 x 6205-2RS bearings, 2-pack
  • 0.039 x 0.98 in steel shaft 7 7/8 in
  • 1 x HTD-5M belt 13 3/4 in, 0.59 in wide
  • 1 x MT1 live centre
  • 0.039 x 0.47 in carbide insert turning tool
  • 1 x T8 lead screw 11 13/16 in + nut + coupler, 2 sets
  • 1 x MGN12H rail 5 7/8 in + carriage
  • 2 x NEMA17 stepper, 1 9/16 in
  • 1 x MKS DLC32 V2.1 controller
  • 1 x 24 V 10 A supply (Mean Well LRS-250-24)
  • 2 x 2040 V-slot, black, cut to length
  • 1 x V-wheel kits, 20-pack
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • stl/lm_headstock.stl (printed)
  • stl/lm_spindle_pulley.stl (printed)
  • stl/lm_motor_pulley.stl (printed)
  • stl/lm_motor_mount.stl (printed)
  • stl/lm_tailstock.stl (printed)
  • stl/tail handwheel.stl (printed)
  • stl/lm_carriage.stl (printed)
  • stl/lm_cross_slide.stl (printed)
  • stl/lm_tool_post.stl (printed)
  • stl/lm_controller_box.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Print the headstock in PETG-CF, 6 walls, 40% infill. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Spindle

Have the 0.98 in shaft threaded to the chuck's back plate (or fit a back plate with a set-screw collar). Press the two 6205 bearings into the headstock.

3. Bed

Bolt the two 2040 rails to the base, parallel within 0.008 in (dial indicator).

4. Drive

Mount the 775 motor under the headstock; fit the printed pulleys and HTD belt; tension to 0.2 in deflection.

5. Carriage and cross slide

V-wheel carriage on the rails with the T8 nut; MGN12 cross slide on top; tool post on the cross slide.

6. Tailstock

Slide it on, fit the live centre and check it meets the chuck centre within 0.008 in.

Wiring

  • MKS DLC32: Z (along the bed) and X (cross slide) steppers, limit switches.
  • 775 motor on its PWM board; PWM from the DLC32 spindle output.
  • E-stop on motor power.

Firmware

  • GRBL in lathe mode ($32 = 0); X in diameter mode in Fairy Ring's post-processor.
  • $100 = 400 (T8 at 0.079 in lead... 1,600 at 16 microsteps for 0.079 in lead; check your screw).
  • Spindle max 3,000 rpm mapped to S1000.

First test

  1. Turn a 1 3/16 in test cylinder and measure it at both ends: within 0.004 in means the tailstock is aligned.

Mud Diva

Clay and concrete paste extruder for mold cores and vessel blanks.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets clay and concrete cores

Mud Diva

Mud Diva is a paste printer for clay and fine cement. A ram keeps a printed auger fed through a hose, and the auger lays down the bead, so starts and stops stay crisp. It prints clay cores and blanks for concrete pieces like K, lost cores, and vessels straight onto the bed.

How it works

Layer 1 / Layer 32

Layer 1
Layer 32
  1. Stiff clay (or a retarded, fine cement paste) goes into a 2 in aluminium cartridge; a stepper ram keeps it under light pressure.
  2. A hose carries it to a small printed auger head on the printer, driven by the printer's own extruder output through a 5:1 gearbox.
  3. The printer lays 0.12 in layers of a 0.2 in bead, up to 11 13/16 x 11 13/16 x 13 in, and the core dries or sets on the bed.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Vessels and planters
Coiled clay pots and vases straight from the Fairy Ring model.
Mold cores for concrete
A printed clay core for a K-style pour, scraped out after.
Tiles
Relief tiles in clay, fired or cast from.
Lamp bases
Heavy, stable bases for the Queen Bee shades.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Clay around wax Print clay around a Queen Bee wax insert; the wax burns out in the kiln and leaves a clean void. To test.
  2. Paste concrete A fine, retarded cement paste in place of clay for small stacked concrete pieces. To test.

Recipes

Clay paste / concrete paste / curing

Use it for: Clay cores and blanks, lost cores for concrete pieces, and vessels printed straight onto the bed.

Materials

  • Low-fire clay (Amaco No. 25 white) at 22 to 25% water
  • Or fine cement paste: Rapid Set Cement All sieved under 0.039 in, water 0.35 to 0.40 by weight, citric-acid retarder
  • Plaster bats or wet canvas on the bed

Settings

SettingValue
Nozzle0.12 in for detail, 0.16 to 0.2 in for speed
Layer height60% of the nozzle (0.071 in on a 0.12 in nozzle; 0.12 in on 0.2 in)
Line widthNozzle + 30%
Speed0.39 to 0.79 in/s
RetractionNone; the auger reverses a quarter turn
Ram pressureSet so the inlet switch cycles about once per 10 s
Cement work timeAbout 20 min untreated, 45 to 60 min with 0.2% citric acid

Steps

  1. Wedge the clay to remove air, then roll it into a 1 13/16 in log and load the cartridge.
  2. Prime: run the ram until clay reaches the barrel, then turn the auger by hand until it extrudes.
  3. Calibrate: command 3 15/16 in of E and weigh the clay out; set E-steps so 0.039 in of E = the slicer's volume.
  4. Print a 2 3/8 in calibration cylinder. Walls should be even and stack without slumping.
  5. Print the part. For tall pieces, pause every 2 3/8 in and let a fan or heat gun firm the base.
  6. Cut it off the bed with a wire. Dry slowly under plastic for clay; mist and cover cement for 3 days.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
SlumpingClay too wet: wedge in 1% dry clay, or slow down and add a fan.
Gaps and stringy beadRam pressure too low or air in the cartridge; re-wedge and reload.
Auger stallsClay too stiff or grit in it; add water to 24% and sieve grog out.
Cement sets in the barrelUse the retarder, keep batches under 400 mL and rinse straight after.

Safety

  • Wear nitrile gloves with cement; it burns skin.
  • Mix dry cement outdoors or under a dust mask (silica).
  • Never leave the ram pushing on a blocked nozzle.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

Clay paste

For printed cores, formwork and pots
You need
Stoneware or earthenware claySmooth body, no grog bigger than 0.039 in1 bag (25 lb / 11 kg)
WaterWorked in until a ball holds its shape but pipes through the nozzle22 to 25% of wet weight
Layer / lineStart here0.12 in / 0.2 in
Method
  1. Weigh a lump of clay, dry a sample overnight, weigh again to find its water.
  2. Add water a little at a time and wedge it until even. Wrap and rest it overnight.
  3. Load the cartridge in fist-sized balls, slapping each one down to push air out.
  4. Print a 3 15/16 in cylinder. If the walls bulge, the clay is too wet; if it breaks up, too dry.
  5. Dry slowly under loose plastic. Fire if it's a pot; keep it raw and reclaim it if it was formwork.
If it goes wrong
Walls sag after 30 layers
Too wet, or too fast. Let a fan set it, or print two parts in turn.
Stuttering line
Air in the cartridge. Reload in smaller balls.

Fine concrete paste

For small planters and K-style pieces

Not real concrete: the nozzle can't pass gravel, so it is a fine cement and sand paste. It needs a plasticiser to flow and a retarder so it doesn't set in the tube.

You need
Portland cementType I/II, fresh bag1 part by weight
Fine sandSieved under 0.039 in1 to 1.5 parts
WaterStart low0.35 to 0.40 × cement
SuperplasticiserPolycarboxylate, follow the label doselabel
RetarderBuys working time in the cartridgelabel
Fibres (optional)PVA or polypropylene micro-fibrelabel
Method
  1. Mix dry first. Add 80% of the water and the plasticiser, mix 3 minutes.
  2. Add the rest of the water only if it won't flow. Stiff but smooth is right.
  3. Fill the cartridge, print within the retarder's working time.
  4. Cover with plastic for 24 h, then keep it damp for 7 days. Slow and wet makes it strong.
  5. Flush the nozzle and auger with water the moment you stop.
If it goes wrong
Cracks the next day
Dried too fast. Cover it and mist it.
Sets in the tube
Too little retarder or too slow. Print smaller batches.

Wet cement is caustic and burns skin. Gloves, long sleeves and eye protection. Mix dry cement outdoors or in a mask: the dust is harmful.

Clay as formwork

Print the mold, pour, wash it away
Method
  1. Fairy Ring prints the negative of a concrete part in clay.
  2. Brush the inside with a thin oil or form release.
  3. Pour the concrete paste by hand, tap and vibrate out the air (or use Pour Decisions).
  4. After 48 h, soak the whole thing and wash the clay off with a soft brush.
  5. Slake the clay in a bucket and reuse it. The formwork is never thrown away.

What to buy

10 parts / $569.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

Walmart01Creality Ender-3 V3 Plus$359.0011 13/16 x 11 13/16 x 13 in base printerView on Walmart →StepperOnline02NEMA17 with 5.18:1 planetary gearbox$40.00Auger drive (torque for clay)View on StepperOnline →NEMA 17 with integrated 300 mm T8 lead screw (check the lead in the listing and set steps/mm to match)03NEMA 17 with integrated 11 13/16 in T8 lead screw (check the lead in the listing and set steps/mm to match)$30.00Ram driveView on Amazon →OnlineMetals046061 aluminium tube 2 in OD x 0.065 in wall, 12 in$25.00Clay cartridgeView on OnlineMetals →Ametric M6 stainless threaded rod, 1 m (+ nuts)05Ametric M6 stainless threaded rod, 3.3 ft (+ nuts)$12.00Ram tie rodsView on Amazon →AS568-226 nitrile O-rings (2 in ID x 1/8 in)06AS568-226 nitrile O-rings (2 in ID x 1/8 in)$10.00Piston sealsView on Amazon →Eastman 3/8 in ID clear vinyl tubing, 10 ft (+ brass barbs)07Eastman 3/8 in ID clear vinyl tubing, 10 ft (+ brass barbs)$18.00Clay hoseView on Amazon →Arduino Nano + TMC2209 + pressure switch08Arduino Nano + TMC2209 + pressure switch$25.00Ram controllerView on Amazon →Brass 1/8 NPT barb fittings, 5-pack (drill to 2-6 mm nozzles)09Brass 1/8 NPT barb fittings, 5-pack (drill to 0.079-0.24 in nozzles)$15.00Bead sizesView on Amazon →Amaco low-fire clay, White Art No. 25, 25 lb10Amaco low-fire clay, White Art No. 25, 25 lb$35.00First testsView on Amazon →
1 optional extras
Quikrete quick-setting cement, 10 lb (Rapid Set Cement All at a hardware store also works)01Quikrete quick-setting cement, 10 lb (Rapid Set Cement All at a hardware store also works) (optional)$25.00Fine cement paste tests (sieve it)View on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Mud Diva, exploded
BarrelPETG or ASA, upright, 100% walls near the bore. Ream the bore to 0.646 in. Side port takes a 3/8 in barb.print
AugerPETG, upright, 0.005 in layers, supports off (flight is self-supporting at this pitch). Swap for a 5/8 in wood auger bit cut down if it wears.print
Coupler housingPETG. Window lets you watch the coupler and clear a jam.print
Mount plateASA or PETG, print on its back. The 4 x M3 holes are placeholders: MEASURE the printer's carriage.print
Barrel clampPETG. Two M3 screws into the mount plate's lug.print
Ram top capASA, 6 walls, 60% infill. Holds the NEMA17 (T8x2 lead screw motor) and 4 x M6 tie rods.print
Ram bottom capASA, 6 walls, 60% infill. Tap the outlet 1/4 NPT for a 3/8 in barb, or glue the barb in with epoxy.print
Ram pistonPETG. Two 2 in x 1/8 in O-rings (AS568-2xx) in the grooves; grease with silicone.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 6 to 8 hours plus printing Skill: Medium: printer surgery, stepper wiring

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Tap set M6
  • Hacksaw for the aluminium tube
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x Creality Ender-3 V3 Plus
  • 1 x NEMA17 with 5.18:1 planetary gearbox
  • 1 x NEMA17 with Tr8x2 lead screw, 11 13/16 in
  • 1 x 6061 aluminium tube 2 in OD x 0.065 in wall, 12 in
  • 1 x M6 threaded rod 3.3 ft + nuts
  • 1 x O-rings, 2 in ID x 1/8 in
  • 1 x Clear PVC tube 3/8 in ID, 10 ft + brass barbs
  • 1 x Arduino Nano + TMC2209 + pressure switch
  • 1 x Brass nozzles 0.079 to 0.24 in (1/8 NPT)
  • 1 x Clay, 25 lb (e.g. Amaco No. 11 low-fire)
  • 1 x Rapid Set Cement All, 10 lb (optional)

Made:

  • stl/md_barrel.stl (printed)
  • stl/md_auger.stl (printed)
  • stl/md_coupler_housing.stl (printed)
  • stl/md_mount_plate.stl (printed)
  • stl/md_barrel_clamp.stl (printed)
  • stl/md_ram_top_cap.stl (printed)
  • stl/md_ram_bottom_cap.stl (printed)
  • stl/md_ram_piston.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Remove the hotend

Unplug the Ender-3 V3 Plus hotend and bag it with its screws. The printed mount takes its place on the carriage.

3. Auger head

Press the brass nozzle into the printed barrel, slide in the auger, couple it to the 5:1 geared NEMA17 and close the coupler housing.

4. Ram

Cut the 2 in tube to 11 13/16 in and deburr. Assemble the end caps on four M6 tie rods, fit O-rings to the piston and the T8 nut to the piston rod.

5. Hose

Run 3/8 in vinyl from the ram outlet to the head barb with a pressure switch tee near the head.

6. Set up the slicer profile

Add a 'Mud Diva' printer in the slicer with the settings in the recipe card.

Wiring

  • Geared NEMA17 to the printer's extruder motor connector (same pinout).
  • Ram NEMA17 to a TMC2209 on the Nano; pressure switch to D3 (pull-up).
  • Disable the hotend thermistor check: set a fixed 77 °F dummy (100k resistor) on the thermistor input.

Firmware

  • Printer: set E-steps for the geared auger (start at 5.18 x 93 = 482, then calibrate).
  • Ram Nano: mud_diva_ram.ino pushes 0.008 in while the inlet switch reads low pressure, stops when high.

First test

  1. Extrude 3 15/16 in in air: smooth bead, no pulses.
  2. Print the calibration cylinder before any real part.

Slip Kitten

Slip-casting station for plaster molds made from printed masters.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets plaster molds to slip-cast

Slip Kitten

Slip Kitten casts ceramics. A printed master gets a plaster mold, and Slip Kitten fills it: a printed peristaltic pump moves stirred casting slip into the pour hole and tops it up as the plaster drinks. A load cell under the cradle watches the weight gain flatten when the wall is thick enough, then a worm gearmotor tilts the mold to drain the excess back to the bucket. It ties Vogue's scans and Mud Diva's clay into finished pieces.

How it works

Empty / Cast

Empty
Cast
  1. Stir the slip (about 1.75 specific gravity) and strap the mold into the cradle.
  2. The pump fills the mold and keeps it topped up. When the weight gain per minute drops to the set point (often 10 to 20 minutes for a 0.16 in wall), it stops.
  3. The cradle tilts 120 degrees and drains for 20 minutes; leave it until leather-hard, then open the mold.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Slip-cast vessels, knobs and pulls from plaster molds of printed masters.

Materials

  • Casting slip, cone 06 earthenware or cone 6 porcelain, specific gravity 1.75 to 1.80
  • No. 1 pottery plaster, 70 parts water to 100 plaster by weight
  • Mold soap or Murphy's oil soap as a release on printed masters

Settings

SettingValue
Slip SG1.75 to 1.80; add sodium silicate a drop at a time if it's thick
FillPump to the brim; top up as it drops
Cast time10 to 20 min for a 0.12 to 0.2 in wall (stop when weight gain per minute halves)
DrainTilt 120 degrees, 20 min
Leather-hard30 to 60 min in the mold, then open
Mold dryingUnder 113 °F (plaster weakens above 122 °F); 2 to 3 days in Hot Flash at 104 °F or a week in air

Steps

  1. Pour the plaster mold around a soaped printed master in a printed mold box; let it set 1 h, open, dry.
  2. Stir the slip 10 minutes; check SG with a hydrometer or by weighing 100 mL.
  3. Strap the mold in the cradle, start the cast.
  4. The load cell watches the cast; the cradle tilts and drains.
  5. Open the mold at leather-hard, fettle the seams, dry slowly under plastic.
  6. Bisque at cone 06 (in a kiln), glaze, fire.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
PinholesAir in the slip: stir slower, sieve, rest 1 h.
Thin wallsMold too wet or too short a cast; dry the mold more.
Cracks at seamsOpened too soon or dried too fast.
Pump tube wears outSilicone fatigue: shift the tube 1 3/16 in every 20 casts.

Safety

  • Dry clay and plaster dust contains silica: wet-clean, never sweep; mask when mixing plaster.
  • Plaster gets hot as it sets; never cast a hand or body part in it.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

14 parts / $186.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

Amazon01Casting slip, 1 gal (cone 06 or cone 6)$25.00Clay bodyView on Amazon →No. 1 pottery plaster, 25 lb02No. 1 pottery plaster, 25 lb$30.00MoldsView on Amazon →Silicone tube 8 x 12 mm, 2 m03Silicone tube 5/16 x 0.47 in, 6.6 ft$10.00Pump tubeView on Amazon →608ZZ bearings, 10-pack04608ZZ bearings, 10-pack$8.00Pump rollersView on Amazon →NEMA17 stepper, 40 mm05NEMA17 stepper, 1 9/16 in$12.00PumpView on Amazon →uxcell 12 V worm gearmotor06uxcell 12 V worm gearmotor$17.00Tilts the cradle (same as Lazarella)View on Amazon →775 motor 12 V + PWM speed board07775 motor 12 V + PWM speed board$18.00StirrerView on Amazon →20 kg bar load cell + HX7110820 kg bar load cell + HX711$9.00Weighs the castView on Amazon →Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)09Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)$6.00ControllerView on Amazon →5 V relay module, 1-channel105 V relay module, 1-channel$3.00Switches the loadView on Amazon →L298N motor driver11L298N motor driver$6.00Tilt motorView on Amazon →12 V 5 A supply1212 V 5 A supply$14.00MotorsView on Amazon →2 gal bucket with lid132 gal bucket with lid$8.00SlipView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg14PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Slip Kitten, exploded
Cradle earPETG-CF, 2 off; 5/16 in tilt axle through the top.print
Cradle earPETG-CF, 2 off; 5/16 in tilt axle through the top.print
CradlePETG-CF. Holds a 150 x 150 mold; strap goes over the top.print
Stirrer bridgeprint
PaddlePETG, keyed to an 5/16 in shaft.print
Pump housingPETG-CF. 3 in track; tube path with two clamp ears.print
Rotorprint
Controller boxprint

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 6 hours plus printing Skill: Easy to medium

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Soldering iron
  • Bearing press

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x Casting slip, 1 gal (cone 06 or cone 6)
  • 1 x No. 1 pottery plaster, 25 lb
  • 1 x Silicone tube 5/16 x 0.47 in, 6.6 ft
  • 1 x 608ZZ bearings, 10-pack
  • 1 x NEMA17 stepper, 1 9/16 in
  • 1 x uxcell 12 V worm gearmotor
  • 1 x 775 motor 12 V + PWM speed board
  • 1 x 20 kg bar load cell + HX711
  • 1 x Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)
  • 1 x 5 V relay module, 1-channel
  • 1 x L298N motor driver
  • 1 x 12 V 5 A supply
  • 1 x 2 gal bucket with lid
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • stl/sk_cradle_ear.stl (printed) x 2
  • stl/sk_cradle.stl (printed)
  • stl/sk_stirrer_bridge.stl (printed)
  • stl/sk_paddle.stl (printed)
  • stl/sk_pump_housing.stl (printed)
  • stl/sk_rotor.stl (printed)
  • stl/sk_controller_box.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Print the pump rotor and housing in PETG-CF. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Pump

Press 608 bearings onto the rotor pins; lay the silicone tube in the track; fit the NEMA17.

3. Stirrer

Mount the 775 motor on the bridge; couple the shaft to the printed paddle.

4. Cradle

Mount the load cell under the cradle base; ears and axle; worm gearmotor on the axle end.

5. Hoses

Feed hose from the bucket bottom to the pump, fill hose to the mold's pour hole.

6. Controller

Nano, A4988, HX711, relay and L298N in the box.

Wiring

  • A4988 (pump) STEP D3, DIR D4; HX711 DOUT D5, SCK D6; stirrer relay D7; L298N IN1/IN2 D9/D10 for the tilt; tilt limit switch D2.

Firmware

  • slip_kitten.ino: fill, top-up while weight drops, stop when the gain rate halves, tilt and drain, return.

First test

  1. Pump water: 15 mL per rotor turn (calibrate). Tilt the empty cradle 120 degrees and back.

Pour Decisions

Vibration table + vacuum degassing chamber for concrete, plaster and resin.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets concrete and resin pours to settle

Pour Decisions

Pour Decisions gets the air out. A small vibration table floats on printed TPU springs and buzzes concrete and plaster pours until the bubbles rise and pop. Beside it, a 3-gallon aluminium chamber and a 3 CFM pump pull resin and silicone down to -29 inHg so they come out clear. Concrete pieces like K get crisp faces and no pinholes.

How it works

Bubbly / Settled

Bubbly
Settled
  1. Pour concrete or plaster into the mold on the table and set the speed knob; 1 to 3 minutes of vibration brings the air up.
  2. For resin and silicone, set the mixing cup in the chamber, close the lid and open the pump. The mix rises, collapses and goes still in 3 to 5 minutes.
  3. Vent slowly through the ball valve, then pour. A cup only a third full gives the mix room to rise.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Bubble-free concrete, plaster and resin pours; degassed silicone for molds.

Materials

  • Concrete for thin pieces: Quikrete 5000 or Rapid Set mortar mix, water about 0.40 by weight, optional 0.5% superplasticiser
  • Pottery or casting plaster at its consistency (No. 1 pottery plaster: 70 parts water to 100 plaster)
  • Resin and silicone per the maker (for example Mold Star 30: 1A:1B by volume)

Settings

SettingValue
Concrete vibrationMedium speed 60 to 90 s, then low 30 s; stop when bubbles stop rising
PlasterLow speed 20 to 30 s right after pouring
Silicone degasFull vacuum (-29 inHg); it rises, collapses; hold 1 to 2 min after collapse
Resin degas3 to 5 min at full vacuum, cup no more than 1/3 full
Mix temperature20 to 77 °F; cold resin holds bubbles

Steps

  1. Level the table top with the speed set to zero.
  2. Mix concrete thoroughly, pour in layers, vibrate each layer.
  3. For silicone or resin, mix in a cup three times the volume, put it in the chamber, close the valve and run the pump.
  4. Vent slowly, then pour in a thin stream from a height into the lowest corner of the mold.
  5. Optionally vibrate the poured mold on low for 20 s.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Pinholes on concrete facesMore vibration, or a mold release that wets better; tap the mold walls.
Silicone overflows the cupBigger cup, or crack the valve to let it collapse.
Concrete segregatesToo much vibration or too wet; shorten and reduce water.
Pump oil mistChange the oil; never run the pump with the inlet open to resin vapours.

Safety

  • Never vacuum anything above its flash point; no solvents in the chamber.
  • Check the acrylic lid for cracks before every use.
  • Cement and silica dust: mask and gloves.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

7 parts / $277.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

3 gal vacuum chamber kit with 3 CFM single-stage pump013 gal vacuum chamber kit with 3 CFM single-stage pump$120.00DegassingView on Amazon →Vibration motor 60 W (single-phase) with mounting foot02Vibration motor 60 W (single-phase) with mounting foot$45.00Shakes the tableView on Amazon →PWM speed controller for AC motor, 2000 W03PWM speed controller for AC motor, 2000 W$12.00Sets the buzzView on Amazon →TPU 95A filament 1 kg04TPU 95A filament 1 kg$25.00SpringsView on Amazon →Vacuum pump oil, 16 oz05Vacuum pump oil, 16 oz$10.00PumpView on Amazon →6 mm birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack060.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack$45.00Laser-cut partsView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg07PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Pour Decisions, exploded
BaseCut 2 and glue (0.47 in). Holes for the spring posts.cut
LegPETG, 4 off, 40% gyroid. Socket for the spring.print
Tpu springTPU 95A, 4 off. The grooves set the stiffness; 3 rings suits up to 15 kg of mold and mix.print
LegPETG, 4 off, 40% gyroid. Socket for the spring.print
Tpu springTPU 95A, 4 off. The grooves set the stiffness; 3 rings suits up to 15 kg of mold and mix.print
LegPETG, 4 off, 40% gyroid. Socket for the spring.print
Tpu springTPU 95A, 4 off. The grooves set the stiffness; 3 rings suits up to 15 kg of mold and mix.print
LegPETG, 4 off, 40% gyroid. Socket for the spring.print
Tpu springTPU 95A, 4 off. The grooves set the stiffness; 3 rings suits up to 15 kg of mold and mix.print
TopCut 2 and glue. Shellac it; concrete will land on it.cut
FencePETG, prints in 4 straight pieces with dovetails.print
Speed podHolds the 220 V PWM speed controller board and its knob.print
Mold boxAny printed mold; shown as a 180 x 140 box.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 3 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Drill
  • Wrenches

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x 3 gal vacuum chamber kit with 3 CFM single-stage pump
  • 1 x Vibration motor 60 W (single-phase) with mounting foot
  • 1 x PWM speed controller for AC motor, 2000 W
  • 1 x TPU 95A filament 1 kg
  • 1 x Vacuum pump oil, 16 oz
  • 0.039 x 0.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • laser/pd_base_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/pd_leg.stl (printed) x 4
  • stl/pd_tpu_spring.stl (printed) x 4
  • laser/pd_top_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/pd_fence.stl (printed)
  • stl/pd_speed_pod.stl (printed)
  • stl/pd_mold_box.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Print the springs in TPU 95A. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Base

Glue the two 0.24 in base layers; screw the printed legs at the corners.

3. Springs and top

Push the TPU springs onto the legs; glue the two top layers and set the top on the springs.

4. Motor

Bolt the vibration motor under the top with M8 bolts and nyloc nuts; it must not touch the base.

5. Speed pod

Mount the PWM controller in its pod; wire the motor through it.

6. Chamber

Assemble the chamber kit: gasket, lid, gauge and valve with PTFE tape; fill the pump with oil to the sight-glass line.

Wiring

  • Vibration motor through the speed controller, mains plug with earth to the motor body.

Firmware

  • None.

First test

  1. Run the table empty: it should buzz evenly without walking across the bench.
  2. Pull the empty chamber to -29 inHg; it should hold for 10 minutes with the valve closed.

Skin Tight

A vacuum former that pulls hot plastic sheet over 3D-printed molds.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets vacuum-formed trays and covers

Skin Tight

Skin Tight pulls hot plastic sheet over 3D-printed molds. Clamp a sheet in her frame, heat it, drop it, and the shop vac pulls it skin-tight over the mold in about two seconds. She makes tool-tray inserts like the moth doctor's case, packaging, clamshells and small covers.

How it works

Sheet 150 °c / Vacuum on

Sheet 150 °c
Vacuum on
  1. A 9 x 12 in sheet of PETG or HIPS is clamped between two ply frames that slide on four steel posts.
  2. The framed sheet is heated in a toaster oven (or under a heater) until it sags, about 140 to 160 C.
  3. It drops onto the drilled platen, the shop vac switches on, and the sheet hugs the printed mold.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Tool-tray inserts
Pulled over printed tool shapes, for cases like the moth doctor's.
Clamshell packaging
For Queen Bee jars and small parts.
Covers
Dust covers and button caps for the rig and the machines.
Soap and chocolate molds
Thin food-safe PETG pulled over a printed master.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Molds for wax and concrete A pulled sheet is a cheap, flexible mold: pour Queen Bee wax or a concrete tile into it. To test.
  2. Pull over a scan Scan an object on Vogue, print a buck from it, and pull a case insert that fits it exactly.

Recipes

Sheet plastics / temperatures / mold rules

Use it for: Vacuum-formed skins over printed molds: trays, covers, packaging and mold liners.

Materials

  • HIPS 0.039 in (easiest), PETG 0.03 to 0.039 in (clear), acrylic 0.059 in (needs more heat)
  • Printed molds in PLA or PETG with 2 to 3 degree draft and 0.039 in vent holes in deep corners

Settings

SettingValue
HIPSOven 175 to 374 °F, 2 to 4 min until it sags 0.98 to 1 3/16 in
PETGOven 140 to 320 °F, 1 to 3 min; watch for whitening
AcrylicOven 160 to 338 °F, 4 to 6 min
VacuumShop vac on before the sheet comes out of the oven
Transfer timeUnder 3 seconds from oven to platen

Steps

  1. Clamp the sheet in the two ply frames with the magnets.
  2. Heat it in Hot Flash or the toaster oven until it sags.
  3. Turn on the vac, pull the frame out and drop it straight down the posts over the mold.
  4. Hold 20 seconds; let it cool 1 minute before lifting.
  5. Trim with a knife or on Drag Queen.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Webbing at cornersMold too close to others or too tall; space them out, add draft.
Not pulling detailSheet too cold or vac leak; seal the platen edges.
Bubbles in the sheetWet PETG; dry it 2 h at 65 C.

Safety

  • Hot sheet and frames: oven gloves.
  • Dedicated oven only, never for food.
  • Don't overheat PETG or acrylic; ventilate.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

Sheet plastics

What she pulls, and how hot
You need
PETGClear, tough, food-safe grades exist. Dry it first.0.02 to 0.059 in / 284 to 320 °F
HIPSCheap, white, easy. Best for test pulls and trays.0.02 to 0.059 in / 284 to 320 °F
DryingPETG sheet in a low oven or Hot Flash149 °F for 2 h
Method
  1. Clamp the sheet in the frame. Heat until it sags about 0.98 in in the middle.
  2. Drop it onto the mold and switch on the vacuum at once.
  3. Hold for 10 to 20 s, until it is cool enough to touch.
  4. Pop the mold out with a puff of air. Trim on the xTool or with snips.
If it goes wrong
Webbing at corners
Molds too close together or too tall. Space them, add a ring around tall ones.
Bubbles in PETG
Wet sheet. Dry it first.
Soft detail
Not hot enough, or the vent holes are blocked.

Mold rules

Fairy Ring checks these for you
You need
DraftEvery side wall tilts out3°
FilletsNo sharp inside corners0.079 in
VentsIn every low spot, drilled through0.039 in
DepthKeep under the width of the mold< 1 : 1

Hot sheet and the heater element burn. Gloves, and never leave the heater on alone.

What to buy

7 parts / $186.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

BLACK+DECKER TO1745SSG 4-slice toaster oven (dedicated, non-food)01BLACK+DECKER TO1745SSG 4-slice toaster oven (dedicated, non-food)$60.00Heats the framed sheetView on Amazon →uxcell 12 x 250 mm chrome rods, 2-pack02uxcell 0.47 x 9 13/16 in chrome rods, 2-pack$20.00Qty 4 · PostsView on Amazon →VSKIZ 10 x 3 mm neodymium magnets, 50-pack03VSKIZ 0.39 x 0.12 in neodymium magnets, 50-pack$10.00Frame closureView on Amazon →MatterHackers04Vaquform PETG sheets 0.02 in, 35 pack$55.00Cut to sizeView on MatterHackers →White HIPS 1 mm 12 x 12 in, 10-pack (0.75 mm isn't stocked; 1 mm pulls fine)05White HIPS 0.039 in 12 x 12 in, 10-pack (0.03 in isn't stocked; 0.039 in pulls fine)$25.00Black or whiteView on Amazon →Frost King R538H foam tape, 3/8 in06Frost King R538H foam tape, 3/8 in$8.00Platen edge gasketView on Amazon →Rubbermaid stainless oven thermometer07Rubbermaid stainless oven thermometer$8.00View on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Skin Tight, exploded
Base0.24 in ply; posts press through.cut
Platen top0.24 in ply, sealed with shellac. 0.126 in holes on a 0.59 in grid.cut
Platen wall longWalls: 2 long (one with the 2 3/8 in port hole), 2 short (st_platen_wall_short). Glue + seal.cut
Platen wall shortx2, 0.24 in ply.cut
Hose adapterPETG. 2.512 in socket for a 2.5 in shop-vac hose (MEASURE yours).print
Framex2 (upper and lower), 0.24 in ply. 0.24 x 0.39 in magnets or 6 binder clips close them on the sheet.cut
Frame bushingx4, PETG. Press-fit on the upper frame; slides on the 0.47 in posts.print
HandlePETG. Screws to the upper frame; keeps hands off the hot sheet.print
Mold tool trayExample mold: a two-tool tray insert. PETG/ASA, 3 walls, 3 degree draft, 0.039 in vents in the valleys.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 3 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Drill
  • Hex keys
  • Glue

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x Shop vac (already owned)
  • 1 x Toaster oven (dedicated, non-food)
  • 0.16 x 0.47 in steel rods 9 13/16 in
  • 1 x Neodymium magnets 0.39 x 0.12 in, 50 pack
  • 1 x Vaquform PETG sheets 0.02 in, 35 pack
  • 1 x HIPS sheets 0.03 in 12 x 12 in, 10 pack
  • 1 x Foam weatherstrip
  • 1 x Oven thermometer

Made:

  • laser/st_base_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/st_platen_top_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/st_platen_wall_long_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/st_platen_wall_short_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/st_hose_adapter.stl (printed)
  • laser/st_frame_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/st_frame_bushing.stl (printed)
  • stl/st_handle.stl (printed)
  • stl/st_mold_tool_tray.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Platen box

Glue the ply box with the drilled top (0.126 in holes on a 0.59 in grid); seal inside with shellac.

3. Posts

Fit the four 0.47 in rods into the base corners.

4. Frames

Glue the magnets into the two frames and add the foam weatherstrip to the platen top.

5. Vac port

Fit the printed port and connect the shop vac.

Wiring

  • None.

Firmware

  • None.

First test

  1. Pull a HIPS sheet over a simple box mold and check the corners are sharp.

Cher Bend

Steam box + laser-cut bending forms with printed cam clamps.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets bending forms cut from a curve

Cher Bend

Cher Bend softens wood with steam and bends it over a form Fairy Ring cut. The box is laser-cut ply with finger joints, lined with foil insulation, fed by a wallpaper steamer. The forms are stacks of laser-cut ply, so any curve on screen becomes a form in an hour, with printed cam clamps and a spring-steel strap to hold the bend while it sets.

How it works

Straight / Bent

Straight
Bent
  1. Steam the strip for about one hour per inch of thickness at 95 to 100 C. The dial thermometer tells you the box is up to temperature.
  2. Pull it, clamp one end to the form, wrap the steel strap over the outside and bend in one smooth move within 60 seconds.
  3. Lock the printed cams every 2 3/8 in and leave it overnight, then a day off the form before gluing up.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Steam-bent chair parts, handles, frames and curved rails.

Materials

  • Air-dried white oak, red oak, ash, hickory, cherry or walnut at 15 to 25% moisture (kiln-dried bends poorly)
  • Straight grain with no run-out; rive or select it
  • Distilled water in the steamer (less scale)

Settings

SettingValue
Steam time1 h per 0.98 in of thickness, measured once the box reads 203 °F
Box temperature95 to 212 °F
Bend windowWithin 60 seconds of leaving the box
Minimum radiusAbout 30 x thickness free, 10 x thickness with the strap (oak)
OverbendCut forms 10% tighter to allow spring-back
Set timeOvernight on the form, then 2 to 3 days on a drying form or in Hot Flash at 104 °F

Steps

  1. Mill the stock 0.079 in oversize; ease the edges.
  2. Steam it on the dowel rack for the time above.
  3. Put on gloves, pull it, clamp one end in the strap handle and on the form.
  4. Bend smoothly with the strap on the outside, locking the cams as you go.
  5. Leave it overnight. Move it to a drying jig if you need the form back.
  6. Mill to final size once it reads under 10% MC (Moisture Madame).

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Splits on the outsideUse the strap, a straighter-grained piece, or wetter stock.
Kinks on the insideBent too fast or too cold; work faster out of the box, steam longer.
Springs back a lotMore overbend; longer time on the form.

Safety

  • Steam burns: heavy gloves and long sleeves, and open the door away from you.
  • Don't run the steamer dry; check the water every hour.
  • Watch the strap ends; spring steel can whip.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

9 parts / $196.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

Wallpaper steamer, 4 L tank, with hose01Wallpaper steamer, 4 L tank, with hose$55.00Steam sourceView on Amazon →Dial thermometer 0 to 120 C02Dial thermometer 0 to 248 °F$12.00Box temperatureView on Amazon →Foil bubble insulation roll, 24 in x 10 ft03Foil bubble insulation roll, 24 in x 10 ft$15.00Box liningView on Amazon →Spring steel strip 0.8 x 40 mm, 1 m04Spring steel strip 0.031 x 1.575 in, 3.3 ft$18.00Bending strapView on Amazon →Silicone cord 4 mm, 3 m05Silicone cord 0.16 in, 9.8 ft$8.00Door gasketView on Amazon →M8 bolts 80 mm + wing nuts, 10-pack06M8 bolts 3 1/8 in + wing nuts, 10-pack$12.00Cam clampsView on Amazon →Titebond III, 16 oz07Titebond III, 16 oz$11.00Waterproof glue for the boxView on Amazon →6 mm birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack080.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack$45.00Laser-cut partsView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg09PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →
1 optional extras
Air-dried white oak strips (bending stock)01Air-dried white oak strips (bending stock) (optional)$30.00Steam-bends best; avoid kiln-driedView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Cher Bend, exploded
Box sideCut 4 (two sides, top, bottom). Glue with Titebond III, then line with foil bubble insulation.cut
End panelClosed end, with the steam inlet hole.cut
LegPETG, 4 off. The back pair is 3 degrees taller so the box drains to the door end.print
LegPETG, 4 off. The back pair is 3 degrees taller so the box drains to the door end.print
LegPETG, 4 off. The back pair is 3 degrees taller so the box drains to the door end.print
LegPETG, 4 off. The back pair is 3 degrees taller so the box drains to the door end.print
DoorPETG, 5/16 in, gasketed with a silicone cord in a printed groove.print
Latchprint
Steam inletASA or PETG. Push-fits the steamer hose; the flange screws to the end panel.print
Form layerCut 7 per form, glue and screw (three 5/16 in alignment dowels).cut
Strap handlePETG; bolts to the strap ends, 2 off.print
Strap handlePETG; bolts to the strap ends, 2 off.print
Cam clampPETG, 5 per form. Eccentric cam on an M8 bolt through the form.print
Cam clampPETG, 5 per form. Eccentric cam on an M8 bolt through the form.print
Cam clampPETG, 5 per form. Eccentric cam on an M8 bolt through the form.print
Cam clampPETG, 5 per form. Eccentric cam on an M8 bolt through the form.print
Cam clampPETG, 5 per form. Eccentric cam on an M8 bolt through the form.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 5 to 6 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Clamps
  • Brad nailer or screws
  • Drill
  • Utility knife

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x Wallpaper steamer, 4 L tank, with hose
  • 1 x Dial thermometer 0 to 248 °F
  • 1 x Foil bubble insulation roll, 24 in x 10 ft
  • 1 x Spring steel strip 0.031 x 1.575 in, 3.3 ft
  • 1 x Silicone cord 0.16 in, 9.8 ft
  • 1 x M8 bolts 3 1/8 in + wing nuts, 10-pack
  • 1 x Titebond III, 16 oz
  • 1 x Air-dried white oak strips (bending stock) (optional)
  • 0.039 x 0.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • laser/cb_box_side_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/cb_end_panel_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/cb_leg.stl (printed) x 4
  • stl/cb_door.stl (printed)
  • stl/cb_latch.stl (printed)
  • stl/cb_steam_inlet.stl (printed)
  • laser/cb_form_layer_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/cb_strap_handle.stl (printed) x 2
  • stl/cb_cam_clamp.stl (printed) x 5

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Box

Glue the four 0.24 in side panels with Titebond III at the finger joints, then the closed end; clamp square. Line inside with foil bubble insulation, foil facing in.

3. Rack and door

Push the maple dowels through the side holes; hinge the printed door with its gasket; fit the latch.

4. Legs and drain

Screw the legs on (taller pair at the closed end) and drill a 0.39 in drain at the low end.

5. Steam

Screw the printed inlet to the closed end and push the steamer hose on.

6. Forms

Glue and screw seven ribs per form on the base with the three dowels; fit the cam clamps on M8 bolts.

Wiring

  • None (the steamer plugs in).

Firmware

  • None.

First test

  1. Run the steamer: the thermometer should reach 203 °F within 20 minutes.
  2. Bend a 0.39 in ash test strip around the form.

Bog Witch

Moss and lichen grower for living inlays and wall panels.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets living moss panels

Bog Witch

Bog Witch grows the green. A clear laser-cut cabinet over a water tray keeps moss and lichen at 85 to 95% humidity under full-spectrum light, with a fan that keeps the air moving so mold can't settle. Tiles grow in laser-cut ply frames that drop straight into a routed pocket in a cabinet door or wall panel: living inlay.

How it works

Bare / Grown

Bare
Grown
  1. Press coco coir, cork or felt into a 4 3/4 in tile frame and seed it with blended moss or lichen fragments.
  2. The ESP32 holds humidity with the ultrasonic mister, runs the fan 30 s every 10 minutes and the lights 12 hours a day.
  3. Tiles are ready in 6 to 12 weeks. Fairy Ring logs the humidity and photos, so you can see which recipe grew best.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Living moss and lichen tiles for inlays and wall panels (preserved option for dry rooms).

Materials

  • Sheet moss (Hypnum), cushion moss (Leucobryum), or fern moss, collected responsibly or bought live
  • Substrate: coco coir pressed 0.39 in, cork sheet or wool felt
  • Rainwater or distilled water (no chlorine)
  • For preserved tiles: glycerin and water 1:2

Settings

SettingValue
Humidity85 to 95% RH
Temperature15 to 75 °F
Light12 h on, low (about 100 to 200 PPFD); keep the bars 5 7/8 in up
Fan30 s every 10 min
MisterOn below 85%, off at 95%
Grow time6 to 12 weeks to cover a tile
PreservingSoak 2 to 3 days in 1:2 glycerin/water, dry 1 week

Steps

  1. Soak the substrate, press it into the tile frame.
  2. Tear moss into 0.2 to 0.39 in pieces and press it in firmly, gaps no wider than a piece.
  3. Mist and set the tile on the shelf.
  4. Check weekly: trim yellow bits, turn tiles every 2 weeks.
  5. When covered, either keep it living (needs humidity where it's installed) or preserve it before inlaying.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
White fuzz (mould)More airflow; dab with 3% hydrogen peroxide diluted 1:10.
Moss browningToo much light or too dry; lower the bars or raise RH.
Algae on the acrylicWipe weekly; reduce light hours.

Safety

  • Mains for the mister supply stays outside the wet box.
  • Wash hands after handling wild moss.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

11 parts / $214.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

Ultrasonic mist maker 24 V with float01Ultrasonic mist maker 24 V with float$15.00HumidityView on Amazon →Full-spectrum LED grow bars, 2-pack02Full-spectrum LED grow bars, 2-pack$25.00LightView on Amazon →SHT31 humidity sensor module03SHT31 humidity sensor module$8.00Reads RHView on Amazon →ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)04ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)$8.00Controller with Wi-Fi so Fairy Ring can log and call itView on Amazon →5 V relay module, 4-channel055 V relay module, 4-channel$8.00Switches the loadsView on Amazon →12 V 4010 fan0612 V 4010 fan$7.00Air movementView on Amazon →Clear acrylic 3 mm, 12 x 24 in, 4-pack07Clear acrylic 0.12 in, 12 x 24 in, 4-pack$35.00Sides and door (laser-cut)View on Amazon →24 V 2 A + 12 V 2 A supplies0824 V 2 A + 12 V 2 A supplies$18.00Mister and fanView on Amazon →Coco coir brick + live moss mix09Coco coir brick + live moss mix$25.00Substrate and seedView on Amazon →6 mm birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack100.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack$45.00Laser-cut partsView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg11PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Bog Witch, exploded
Water trayPETG, prints in 2 halves with a dovetail; seal the seam with silicone.print
Grate0.24 in ply sealed with spar urethane, or 0.12 in acrylic.cut
Side0.12 in clear acrylic, cut 2.cut
Back0.24 in ply, painted inside with white mould-resistant paint.cut
TopSlot for the light bars to shine through a clear strip.cut
Door pullprint
Controller podPETG. Keep it outside the wet box; cable glands through the side.print
ShelfPETG, 2 off; slots hold tiles at 10 degrees.print
ShelfPETG, 2 off; slots hold tiles at 10 degrees.print
Tile frame0.24 in ply frame, 4 3/4 in tile; make the routed pocket in the door 4.744 in.cut

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 4 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Silicone sealant
  • Hex keys
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x Ultrasonic mist maker 24 V with float
  • 1 x Full-spectrum LED grow bars, 2-pack
  • 1 x SHT31 humidity sensor module
  • 1 x ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)
  • 1 x 5 V relay module, 4-channel
  • 1 x 12 V 4010 fan
  • 1 x Clear acrylic 0.12 in, 12 x 24 in, 4-pack
  • 1 x 24 V 2 A + 12 V 2 A supplies
  • 1 x Coco coir brick + live moss mix
  • 0.039 x 0.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • stl/bw_water_tray.stl (printed)
  • laser/bw_grate_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/bw_side_3mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/bw_back_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/bw_top_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/bw_door_pull.stl (printed)
  • stl/bw_controller_pod.stl (printed)
  • stl/bw_shelf.stl (printed) x 2
  • laser/bw_tile_frame_6mm.dxf (laser)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Cut the acrylic with the paper on, slower and in air assist. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Tray

Join the two tray halves; seal the seam with silicone; fill with water to check for leaks.

3. Cabinet

Glue the acrylic sides to the ply back and top with silicone; hang the door on printed hinges.

4. Light, mist, fan

Screw the LED bars over the top slot, drop the mister in the tray, mount the fan through the side.

5. Pod

Mount the pod outside with the ESP32, relay and supplies; pass cables through glands.

Wiring

  • ESP32 to the 4-channel relay: mister, fan, lights, spare.
  • SHT31 on I2C (SDA 21, SCL 22), on a 3.3 ft cable inside the box.

Firmware

  • bog_witch.ino (or ESPHome YAML): humidity hysteresis 85 to 95%, fan timer, light schedule from NTP, MQTT logging to Fairy Ring.

First test

  1. Run empty for 24 h: humidity should hold 85 to 95% and the tray should not leak.

Hot Flash

PID-controlled oven for wax burnout, drying, curing and bisque-drying.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Form / gets bake, burnout and drying schedules

Hot Flash

Hot Flash is a countertop convection oven taught to hold a temperature to within a few degrees. A PID controller and a solid-state relay take over from the bimetal thermostat, and a printed side pod keeps the electronics cool. It burns out wax patterns from Queen Bee, dries clay from Mud Diva and Slip Kitten, kills mycelium in Mother's pieces, dries filament from Lazarella and cures epoxy from Glow Diva.

How it works

Cold / Baking

Cold
Baking
  1. A K-type thermocouple sits at the rack, where the work is, not at the oven wall.
  2. The REX-C100 PID switches the elements through a 25 A SSR; the oven's own dial is set to max and becomes a safety cut-out.
  3. Each recipe is a ramp and hold (for example 36 °F per minute to 302 °F, hold 1 hour). A Nano with a second probe logs the curve to Fairy Ring.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Dewaxing plaster molds, drying filament and clay, killing mycelium, post-curing epoxy.

Materials

  • Metal or ceramic trays only inside the oven
  • Silica gel in a metal tin when drying filament

Settings

SettingValue
Dewax (wax out of plaster molds)Ramp 2 C/min to 248 °F, hold 1 h, wax drains into a tray; full metal-casting burnout needs a kiln (to 1346 °F), not this oven
Filament dryPLA 45 to 122 °F 4 to 6 h; PETG 149 °F 4 to 6 h; TPU 122 °F 4 h; nylon 167 °F 8 to 12 h
Mycelium kill (Mother's pieces)203 °F for 2 h, or until the core reads 194 °F for 30 min
Clay pre-dryLeather-hard to bone-dry at 140 °F, rising 50 °F per hour to 203 °F, hold 2 h
Epoxy post-cureRamp 10 C/h to 122 °F, hold 2 to 4 h
PIDAutotune once at 212 °F with the work inside

Steps

  1. Pick the profile on the program card and set it on the PID (or send it from Fairy Ring).
  2. Put the work on the tray with the second probe touching it.
  3. Start; the PID ramps and holds, and the log shows both probes.
  4. Let it cool in the oven with the door shut to avoid cracking clay or warping prints.
  5. Note the result in the log so the profile improves.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
OvershootRun autotune again with a load inside; lower the ramp rate.
Clay cracksToo fast: start lower, hold longer at 60 C.
Filament still brittleLonger hold; check the probe sits at the spool.
SSR hotCheck the heatsink paste and the pod fan.

Safety

  • Dedicated oven: never food again once wax, clay or resin has been in it.
  • Never leave it running unattended overnight without the backup thermostat set at max and a smoke alarm nearby.
  • Mains wiring: have it checked by someone qualified if you're unsure. Keep the earth connected to the case.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

10 parts / $159.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

BLACK+DECKER TO1745SSG 4-slice toaster oven (dedicated, non-food)01BLACK+DECKER TO1745SSG 4-slice toaster oven (dedicated, non-food)$50.00Same model as Skin Tight's heater; buy a second oneView on Amazon →REX-C100 PID kit with 25 A SSR and K thermocouple02REX-C100 PID kit with 25 A SSR and K thermocouple$25.00Same kit as LazarellaView on Amazon →SSR heatsink03SSR heatsink$8.00Keeps the SSR cool at 13 AView on Amazon →IEC inlet with switch and fuse04IEC inlet with switch and fuse$9.00Mains inView on Amazon →MAX6675 module + K thermocouple05MAX6675 module + K thermocouple$8.00Second probe for loggingView on Amazon →Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)06Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)$6.00ControllerView on Amazon →12 V 4010 fan0712 V 4010 fan$7.00Cools the podView on Amazon →Mica sheet 0.5 mm08Mica sheet 0.02 in$9.00Heat shield behind the podView on Amazon →High-temp silicone wire 14 AWG, 10 ft09High-temp silicone wire 14 AWG, 10 ft$12.00Element wiringView on Amazon →ASA filament 1 kg10ASA filament 1 kg$25.00Pod (heat resistant)View on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Hot Flash, exploded
Control podASA or PETG-CF, 0.12 in walls, mounted 0.079 in off the oven skin on printed standoffs with a sheet of mica between.print
Pod lidprint
Program cardPrint in white, text engraved by Drag Queen.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 3 to 4 hours plus printing Skill: Medium: mains wiring

Tools

  • Screwdrivers
  • Drill with step bit
  • Crimp tool for ring terminals
  • Multimeter

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x BLACK+DECKER TO1745SSG 4-slice toaster oven (dedicated, non-food)
  • 1 x REX-C100 PID kit with 25 A SSR and K thermocouple
  • 1 x SSR heatsink
  • 1 x IEC inlet with switch and fuse
  • 1 x MAX6675 module + K thermocouple
  • 1 x Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)
  • 1 x 12 V 4010 fan
  • 1 x Mica sheet 0.02 in
  • 1 x High-temp silicone wire 14 AWG, 10 ft
  • 1 x ASA filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • stl/hf_control_pod.stl (printed)
  • stl/hf_pod_lid.stl (printed)
  • stl/hf_program_card.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Open the oven

Unplug it. Remove the side panel and photograph the wiring around the thermostat.

3. Thermocouple

Drill a 0.24 in hole in the top, centred over the rack; fit the probe with a nut so its tip sits 0.79 in above the rack.

4. SSR in

Put the SSR's load side in series with the elements (break the element feed, not neutral); leave the original thermostat in series at max as a backup cut-out.

5. Pod

Mount the mica sheet, standoffs and printed pod; fit the PID, SSR on its heatsink, fan and IEC inlet.

6. Close up

Strain-relieve every wire that passes through the oven skin with a grommet.

Wiring

  • IEC inlet (fused 10 A) to the oven's mains feed.
  • PID power from the mains side; PID SSR output (+/-) to the SSR's DC input.
  • K thermocouple to the PID's TC terminals, red to minus on most REX-C100s.
  • Fan 12 V from a small supply in the pod.

Firmware

  • PID: set type K, units C, output SSR (code 'V' models), then run AT at 100 C.

First test

  1. Empty oven: set 212 °F, it should settle within +/- 37 °F in 20 minutes.
  2. Check the case is cool at the pod and the SSR stays under 60 C.

Flex Appeal

Vacuum bag press for veneer and bent laminations.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Finish / gets veneer and bent-lamination presses

Flex Appeal

Flex Appeal is a vacuum bag press with a brain. A printed controller box holds a 12 V diaphragm pump, a vacuum sensor and an Arduino that keeps the bag between -60 and -80 kPa and logs every press. Forms are laser-cut ply ribs, so any curve Fairy Ring draws becomes a press form. It finishes the chain Drag Queen starts: cut veneer, lay it up with Honey Glaze, press it here.

How it works

Loose / Pressed

Loose
Pressed
  1. Lay the veneer stack on the form, add a top caul and breather mesh, and slide it into the vinyl bag on the platen.
  2. Seal the bag. The pump pulls the air out until the sensor reads -75 kPa, which is about 11 psi on every square inch.
  3. The Arduino restarts the pump when the bag leaks back past -60 kPa, holds for the glue's press time and logs the curve.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Veneering flat and curved panels, and bent laminations over laser-cut forms.

Materials

  • Veneer glue: Unibond 800 (urea resin, rigid, no creep) or Better Bond Cold Press for flat work
  • Bent laminations: Unibond 800 or epoxy (PVA creeps and springs back)
  • Plies 0.059 to 0.118 in for laminations; veneer 0.024 in
  • Breather mesh and a 0.12 in hardboard caul

Settings

SettingValue
Bag pressure-60 to -80 kPa (9 to 12 psi on the work); target -75
Unibond 800 press time6 to 8 h at 70 °F (longer when cold)
Cold Press veneer glue1 to 2 h
Glue spreadAbout 0.008 in wet film; a 0.12 in notched roller or Honey Glaze lines 0.47 in apart
Form overbendCut forms 5 to 10% tighter than the target curve for PVA; 2% for Unibond or epoxy

Steps

  1. Dry-fit the stack on the form; mark the centre lines.
  2. Spread glue on the substrate (not the veneer) and lay the layers.
  3. Add the caul, then breather mesh over everything, then slide into the bag.
  4. Seal the bag and start the controller; watch it reach -75 kPa in under a minute.
  5. Leave it for the glue's press time. Check the log: one restart every few minutes is fine.
  6. Unbag, let it rest 24 h before trimming or sanding.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Pump runs constantlyBag leak: check the seal and port O-ring; patch pinholes with vinyl tape.
Bubbles under veneerNo breather mesh or too little glue; cut and re-glue with a syringe.
Lamination springs backPVA creep; switch to Unibond 800 or overbend the form more.
Glue bleeds throughThin veneer and too much glue; less glue, or a release film under the caul.

Safety

  • Urea resin glues: gloves and a dust mask when mixing the powder.
  • Don't exceed -90 kPa on thin cauls; they can crush.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

13 parts / $247.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

12 V diaphragm vacuum pump, -80 kPa class0112 V diaphragm vacuum pump, -80 kPa class$25.00Pulls the bagView on Amazon →XGZP6847 vacuum sensor module, -100 to 0 kPa02XGZP6847 vacuum sensor module, -100 to 0 kPa$9.00Reads bag pressureView on Amazon →Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)03Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)$6.00ControllerView on Amazon →5 V relay module, 1-channel045 V relay module, 1-channel$3.00Switches the loadView on Amazon →50 mm vacuum gauge, 1/8 NPT bottom052 in vacuum gauge, 1/8 NPT bottom$10.00Visible checkView on Amazon →12 V 3 A power supply0612 V 3 A power supply$10.00Pump and ArduinoView on Amazon →Vacuum bag kit (20 mil vinyl, 4 x 4 ft) or bulk vinyl + seal07Vacuum bag kit (20 mil vinyl, 4 x 4 ft) or bulk vinyl + seal$60.00The bagView on Amazon →Breather mesh (fiberglass screen) 3 x 4 ft08Breather mesh (fiberglass screen) 3 x 4 ft$10.00Lets air out from under the workView on Amazon →Clear vinyl tubing 3/8 in ID, 10 ft09Clear vinyl tubing 3/8 in ID, 10 ft$12.00Bag to boxView on Amazon →Home Depot10MDF 3/4 in, 2 x 4 ft$25.00PlatenView on Home Depot →Hardboard 1/8 in, 2 x 4 ft11Hardboard 1/8 in, 2 x 4 ft$12.00Form skins and caulsView on Amazon →6 mm birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack120.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack$45.00Laser-cut partsView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg13PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Flex Appeal, exploded
FootTPU or PETG, 4 off. Keeps the platen off the bench.print
FootTPU or PETG, 4 off. Keeps the platen off the bench.print
FootTPU or PETG, 4 off. Keeps the platen off the bench.print
FootTPU or PETG, 4 off. Keeps the platen off the bench.print
Rib 1Cut 5. Draw any curve in LightBurn; the arc here is 15 in long with a 1 13/16 in rise.cut
SpacerCut 3. Slots into the ribs.cut
Bag portPETG, two halves clamp the bag with an O-ring; 3/8 in barb.print
Controller boxPETG. Vent slots over the pump. Gauge bores through the front.print
Controller lidprint

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 4 to 5 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Soldering iron
  • Multimeter
  • Utility knife

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x 12 V diaphragm vacuum pump, -80 kPa class
  • 1 x XGZP6847 vacuum sensor module, -100 to 0 kPa
  • 1 x Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)
  • 1 x 5 V relay module, 1-channel
  • 0.039 x 2 in vacuum gauge, 1/8 NPT bottom
  • 1 x 12 V 3 A power supply
  • 1 x Vacuum bag kit (20 mil vinyl, 4 x 4 ft) or bulk vinyl + seal
  • 1 x Breather mesh (fiberglass screen) 3 x 4 ft
  • 1 x Clear vinyl tubing 3/8 in ID, 10 ft
  • 1 x MDF 3/4 in, 2 x 4 ft
  • 1 x Hardboard 1/8 in, 2 x 4 ft
  • 0.039 x 0.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • stl/fa_foot.stl (printed) x 4
  • laser/fa_rib_1_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/fa_spacer_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/fa_bag_port.stl (printed)
  • stl/fa_controller_box.stl (printed)
  • stl/fa_controller_lid.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Platen

Cut the 11/16 in MDF to 600 x 400; seal all edges and faces with two coats of shellac; screw on the four printed feet.

3. Form

Slot the five ribs onto the three spacers, glue, then glue and pin the 0.12 in hardboard skin over the curve. Wax it.

4. Bag

Seal the vinyl envelope (or tube) with its seal strip; cut a 0.39 in hole for the port and clamp the two printed halves with the O-ring between.

5. Controller box

Mount the pump on its rubber feet, the sensor, Nano and relay; push the gauge through the front.

6. Plumbing

Tee the bag line to the sensor and gauge, then to the pump inlet; the pump exhaust vents out of the box's slots.

Wiring

  • 12 V in to the relay COM and the Nano's VIN; relay NO to the pump +.
  • XGZP6847 analog out to A0, 5 V and ground.
  • Status LED on D6 with a 330 ohm resistor.

Firmware

  • flex_appeal.ino: read A0, convert with the sensor's curve, pump on below -60 kPa, off at -78; log every 10 s over USB; flash the LED if the pump runs more than 15 s in any 30.

First test

  1. Seal an empty bag: it should reach -75 kPa and hold above -60 for at least 5 minutes with the pump off.

Honey Glaze

Glue and finish dispensing head for a diode-laser gantry.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Finish / gets glue lines and finish passes

Honey Glaze

Honey Glaze lays glue and finish exactly where the drawing says. On a diode-laser frame, a syringe lays an even serpentine bead of veneer glue across a substrate, or traces a bead along every joint line, and a felt pad wipes on thin coats of oil or shellac. Where the laser would fire, glue flows.

How it works

Dry / Glued

Dry
Glued
  1. A 30 cc syringe sits on a bench pneumatic dispenser; the laser's PWM closes its foot-switch input through a small relay, so 'laser on' means 'glue on'.
  2. Bead size is pressure times speed, set once per glue; the dispenser's suck-back stops drips between moves.
  3. For finish, a 12 V peristaltic pump feeds a felt pad from the laser's air-assist output, laying thin even coats.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Glue lines
Even beads for veneer layups and edge banding.
Finish passes
Oil, shellac or wiping varnish on flat panels.
Inlay glue dots
Small CA or PVA dots exactly where each piece lands.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Epoxy line fill Fill engraved or cut lines with tinted epoxy, then sand flush for a drawn line in the wood. To test.
  2. Resist patterns Draw a wax or masking resist before stain for two-tone panels. To test.

Recipes

Glues / finishes / how they go on

Use it for: Glue beads for veneer layups and joinery, thin coats of oil or shellac on flat panels.

Materials

  • Titebond II or III for veneer and joinery (or Better Bond Cold Press for veneer)
  • Danish oil, wiping varnish, or 2 lb-cut shellac for the pad
  • 18 ga (0.033 in) tapered tips; 16 ga for thicker glue

Settings

SettingValue
Dispenser pressure15 to 25 psi for Titebond with an 18 ga tip
BeadAbout 0.059 in wide at 0.39 in/s; lines 0.47 in apart for veneer
Suck-backSet until the tip stops weeping between moves
Open timeTitebond II about 5 min; lay veneer and press (Flex Appeal) within that
Pad feedPump pulses: 1 s on per 7 7/8 in of travel for oil, 1 s per 11 13/16 in for shellac
Pad speed1,500 to 2,19.7 in/min

Steps

  1. Fill a 30 cc barrel, fit the piston and cap, and purge a little onto scrap.
  2. Set the tool height so the tip clears the work by 0.039 in.
  3. Run the glue path from Fairy Ring (same file the veneer was cut from).
  4. Lay the veneer and go straight to Flex Appeal or clamps.
  5. For finishes, swap to the pad, prime the line, then run the coat path; let it dry and repeat.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Bead breaksPressure too low or tip partly clogged; up 2 psi or change the tip.
Blobs at startsAdd a 100 ms lead-in delay; check suck-back.
Streaky finishToo little feed; increase pulse length or slow down.

Safety

  • Oily rags and pads can self-heat and catch fire: lay them flat to dry outdoors or keep them in water in a closed metal can.
  • Ventilate when padding shellac or solvent finishes.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

Glues

What goes in the syringe
You need
PVA (yellow wood glue)Most joints and veneer on flat panels. 18 ga tip.open time: label
Urea (powdered resin glue)Veneer and bent work: rigid, no creep. 14 ga tip.open time: label
Hide glue, liquidReversible joints and repairs. 14 ga, warm.label
Method
  1. Fairy Ring writes the glue path as a serpentine, about 5/16 to 0.47 in between lines for veneer.
  2. Purge the tip on scrap until the bead is steady.
  3. Run the path, then roll it out evenly before the open time runs out.
  4. Clamp or bag right away (Flex Appeal for veneer).
  5. Rinse the tip in warm water for PVA; urea and hide glue clean with warm water too, before they set.
If it goes wrong
Glue bleeds through veneer
Too much glue. Widen the line spacing.
Dry spots
Too wide a spacing or the open time ran out. Shorter runs, faster passes.

Finishes

Thin coats, many of them
You need
Oil (tung or Danish oil)Felt pad, flooded then wiped3 to 5 coats
ShellacDewaxed, 1 to 2 lb cut in alcohol3 to 6 coats
Beeswax pasteQueen Bee's scrap, 1 part wax to 3 parts mineral oillast coat
Method
  1. Sand to 180 or 220, vacuum, and wipe with a barely damp cloth.
  2. She passes the pad in overlapping lanes. Oil: wipe off what hasn't soaked in after 15 minutes.
  3. Let each coat dry by the can. Scuff with a grey pad between coats.
  4. Wax goes on last, buffed by hand.

Rags and pads soaked in oil finish can catch fire on their own as they dry. Lay them flat outside to dry or keep them in water in a sealed metal can.

What to buy

7 parts / $272.98 before tax / estimates, check the links

eBay01Digital glue dispenser 983A type, 110 V$59.99Timed or continuous, with suck-backView on eBay →Walmart02Master Airbrush TC-40T compressor with tank$149.99Clean, quiet air for the dispenserView on Walmart →Fhis 30 cc barrels with pistons and caps, 20-pack03Fhis 30 cc barrels with pistons and caps, 20-pack$15.00View on Amazon →Jensen tapered dispensing tips, Luer-lock, 50-pack04Jensen tapered dispensing tips, Luer-lock, 50-pack$10.0014 to 22 gaView on Amazon →NOYITO 1-channel 5 V relay module, 3-pack05NOYITO 1-channel 5 V relay module, 3-pack$8.00Closes the foot-switch inputView on Amazon →Gikfun 12 V peristaltic dosing pump06Gikfun 12 V peristaltic dosing pump$15.00Finish feedView on Amazon →Silicone tube 2 x 4 mm, 1 m (+ felt applicator rod)07Silicone tube 0.079 x 0.16 in, 3.3 ft (+ felt applicator rod)$15.00View on Amazon →
1 optional extras
Sculpfun01Second laser frame (optional, so Drag Queen stays a cutter) (optional)$209.99Sculpfun S9 5.5W; 16 x 16 9/16 in area. Any GRBL diode laser worksView on Sculpfun →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Honey Glaze, exploded
Adapter plateSame adapter as Lady Liner and Drag Queen. MEASURE the laser's head plate holes.cut
Base platePETG/ASA, flat on its back. Slots give 1 3/16 in of tool height.print
Syringe holderPETG. Snap-fits a 30 cc barrel (0.925 in OD, MEASURE).print
Pad holderPETG. Holds the pad tube; a light spring keeps the felt on the panel.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 4 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Soldering iron
  • Multimeter

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x Diode laser frame to carry the head (already owned)
  • 1 x Second laser frame (optional, so Drag Queen stays a cutter) (optional)
  • 1 x Digital glue dispenser 983A type, 110 V
  • 1 x Master Airbrush TC-40T compressor with tank
  • 1 x 30 cc barrels, pistons, caps, adapter kit
  • 1 x Tapered dispensing tips, assorted
  • 1 x 5 V relay module
  • 1 x 12 V peristaltic pump
  • 1 x Felt applicator rod and silicone tube 0.079 x 0.16 in
  • 1 x Veneer glue (e.g. Titebond, Unibond 800) (already owned)

Made:

  • laser/adapter_plate_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/hg_base_plate.stl (printed)
  • stl/hg_syringe_holder.stl (printed)
  • stl/hg_pad_holder.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Base and holders

Bolt the syringe holder and pad holder to the base plate through the height slots.

3. Dispenser

Connect the 983A-type dispenser to shop air (or a small compressor) at 60 psi in; set output with its regulator.

4. Pad

Push the felt pad into its tube with the spring above it; run the silicone line to the peristaltic pump.

5. Mount

Bolt to the laser on the swap plate.

Wiring

  • Laser PWM to a MOSFET module whose output closes the dispenser's foot-switch input (dry contact).
  • Laser air-assist output (or a relay on it) to the 12 V peristaltic pump.

Firmware

  • No firmware: in LightBurn, glue layers use power 1000, finish layers use the air-assist layer setting.

First test

  1. Run a 7 7/8 in line at 0.39 in/s on paper: the bead should be even and stop cleanly.

Sandra Paper

Gantry random-orbit sander for flat panels and veneer faces.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Finish / gets sanding passes

Sandra Paper

Sandra Paper sands so nobody has to. A 2040 gantry, the same parts family as Mortisha, carries a 5 in random-orbit palm sander on a spring-loaded Z, so the pad floats over a warped panel at a steady 2 to 3 kg. It takes off laser scorch, glue squeeze-out and fuzz from Drag Queen, Honey Glaze and Mortisha's work, grit by grit, and pulls the dust into the vac.

How it works

Scorched / Smooth

Scorched
Smooth
  1. Clamp the panel with the printed bench dogs and set the grit: 120 to clear scorch, 180 to smooth, 220 or 320 for finish.
  2. GRBL runs raster passes with 50% overlap at 1,19.7 in/min; a relay switches the sander on at the start and off at the end.
  3. Springs, not the motor, set the pressure, so the pad never digs in and the edges don't round over.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Flattening scorch and squeeze-out, and finish-sanding flat panels and veneered faces.

Materials

  • 5 in hook-and-loop discs, 8-hole, in 80, 120, 150, 180, 220, 320
  • Interface pad for veneer (soft)

Settings

SettingValue
Grit sequence120 (scorch and glue), 150, 180; 220 for oil finishes; 320 between finish coats
Feed1,19.7 in/min
Overlap50% of the pad (raster step 2 3/8 in)
Pressure2 to 3 kg (spring preload, about 5/16 in compression)
Passes per grit2, the second at 90 degrees
VeneerStart at 180, never below 150; one pass per grit

Steps

  1. Clamp the panel with the bench dogs, face up.
  2. Set Z so the springs compress 5/16 in on the panel.
  3. Run the raster from Fairy Ring, grit by grit; vacuum the surface between grits.
  4. Check with a raking light; pencil marks across the panel show missed spots.
  5. Finish by hand along the grain with the last grit, 30 seconds per panel.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Swirl marksSkipped a grit or feed too fast; go back one grit.
Sanded through veneer at edgesRaise the edge offset to 0.39 in; finish edges by hand.
UnevenSpring preload uneven; check both towers.
CloggingDust extraction off or wet glue; let glue cure 24 h.

Safety

  • Dust: run the vac (Dusty Springfield) and wear a mask, especially with walnut and MDF.
  • Keep hands off the bed while it runs.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

12 parts / $319.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

5 in random-orbit palm sander, 2.4 A, hook-and-loop015 in random-orbit palm sander, 2.4 A, hook-and-loop$45.00The sanding headView on Amazon →MKS DLC32 V2.1 controller02MKS DLC32 V2.1 controller$45.00GRBL/FluidNC, same family as the lasersView on Amazon →24 V 10 A supply (Mean Well LRS-250-24)0324 V 10 A supply (Mean Well LRS-250-24)$30.00Motors and controllerView on Amazon →NEMA17 stepper, 40 mm04NEMA17 stepper, 1 9/16 in$36.00Qty 3 · X and two Y motorsView on Amazon →2040 V-slot, black, cut to length052040 V-slot, black, cut to length$56.00Qty 4 · FrameView on Amazon →V-wheel kits, 20-pack06V-wheel kits, 20-pack$22.00CarriagesView on Amazon →MGN12H rail 150 mm + carriage07MGN12H rail 5 7/8 in + carriage$15.00Floating ZView on Amazon →Compression springs 12 x 60 mm assortment08Compression springs 0.47 x 2 3/8 in assortment$9.00Sets pad pressureView on Amazon →GT2 6 mm belt 5 m + 20T pulleys + idlers09GT2 0.24 in belt 16.4 ft + 20T pulleys + idlers$15.00X and Y driveView on Amazon →Relay module 30 A, 5 V coil10Relay module 30 A, 5 V coil$8.00Switches the sanderView on Amazon →Hook-and-loop discs 5 in, 80 to 320 assortment11Hook-and-loop discs 5 in, 80 to 320 assortment$18.00GritsView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg12PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Sandra Paper, exploded
Gantry platePETG-CF, 2 off (mirror one). Eccentric spacer on the lower wheel.print
Gantry platePETG-CF, 2 off (mirror one). Eccentric spacer on the lower wheel.print
X carriagePETG-CF. Four V-wheels, MGN12 rail screws to the front.print
Spring towerPETG, 2 off. Holds a 0.47 x 2 3/8 in compression spring.print
Spring towerPETG, 2 off. Holds a 0.47 x 2 3/8 in compression spring.print
Sander clampPETG with TPU liner; clamps the sander's grip collar.print
Controller boxHouses the MKS DLC32, relay and 24 V supply terminals.print
Bench dogPETG, 4 off, 0.47 in peg into the bed.print
Bench dogPETG, 4 off, 0.47 in peg into the bed.print
Bench dogPETG, 4 off, 0.47 in peg into the bed.print
Bench dogPETG, 4 off, 0.47 in peg into the bed.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 8 to 10 hours plus printing Skill: Medium

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Square
  • Crimp tool

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x 5 in random-orbit palm sander, 2.4 A, hook-and-loop
  • 1 x MKS DLC32 V2.1 controller
  • 1 x 24 V 10 A supply (Mean Well LRS-250-24)
  • 3 x NEMA17 stepper, 1 9/16 in
  • 4 x 2040 V-slot, black, cut to length
  • 1 x V-wheel kits, 20-pack
  • 1 x MGN12H rail 5 7/8 in + carriage
  • 1 x Compression springs 0.47 x 2 3/8 in assortment
  • 1 x GT2 0.24 in belt 16.4 ft + 20T pulleys + idlers
  • 1 x Relay module 30 A, 5 V coil
  • 1 x Hook-and-loop discs 5 in, 80 to 320 assortment
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • stl/sp_gantry_plate.stl (printed) x 2
  • stl/sp_x_carriage.stl (printed)
  • stl/sp_spring_tower.stl (printed) x 2
  • stl/sp_sander_clamp.stl (printed)
  • stl/sp_controller_box.stl (printed)
  • stl/sp_bench_dog.stl (printed) x 4

Steps

1. Print

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Base and bed

Glue and screw the MDF bed to the ply base; drill the 0.47 in dog holes on a 2 in grid.

3. Y rails

Bolt the 2040 Y rails along both sides, parallel within 0.02 in.

4. Gantry

Assemble the gantry plates with V-wheels on the rails and the 2040 X beam across; square it.

5. Z float

Fit the MGN12 rail to the X carriage, hang the sander clamp on it and add the two springs on their towers.

6. Sander

Clamp the sander by its grip collar, tape its switch on, run its port to the vac hose.

Wiring

  • MKS DLC32: X and Y (dual Y motors on the Y and Z driver slots, Z unused).
  • Sander through the 30 A relay on the spindle-enable output.
  • Limit switches on X and Y.

Firmware

  • GRBL: $100/$101 = 80 steps/mm, max rate 3,0 in/min, acceleration 11 13/16 in/s2.
  • Fairy Ring 'sand' export: raster at 50% overlap, M3 to start the sander, 2 s dwell, M5 at the end.

First test

  1. Sand a pencil-scribbled MDF panel with 120: the scribble should vanish evenly.

Glow Diva

Epoxy + glow-powder fill head for engraved channels.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Finish / gets glow fill paths

Glow Diva

Glow Diva fills what Drag Queen engraves. She rides the laser frame on the same swap plate as Honey Glaze and pushes a 50 mL dual cartridge through a static mixer, laying glow epoxy into channels along the same vectors the laser cut. A ring of UV LEDs charges each line as it lands, so you watch it glow in. This is where the moonlight look gets literal.

How it works

Engraved / Glowing

Engraved
Glowing
  1. Engrave the channels 0.079 to 0.12 in deep with Drag Queen, then swap to Glow Diva on the 1 9/16 x 2 15/16 in plate.
  2. Mix 20 to 25% strontium aluminate powder into the B side, load the cartridge and purge the mixer.
  3. The lead screw meters the epoxy as the laser path runs; overfill slightly, cure 24 hours, then flush it flat with Sandra Paper.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Glow-in-the-dark inlay lines, moon phases and constellations in engraved wood.

Materials

  • Low-viscosity 1:1 epoxy (casting or deep-pour)
  • Strontium aluminate glow powder, 25 to 45 micron, green (brightest) or aqua
  • Shellac or thin epoxy to seal the channels first

Settings

SettingValue
Powder loading1 part powder to 4 parts mixed epoxy by weight; because it all goes in the B side, that is 1 part powder to 2 parts B
Channel0.079 to 0.12 in deep, at least 0.059 in wide (engrave on Drag Queen)
Plunger feedAbout 0.03 mL per mm of channel at 0.079 in x 0.079 in; overfill 10%
Travel speed0.2 to 0.31 in/s
Cure24 h at 21 to 77 °F, then optional 2 h at 122 °F in Hot Flash
Charge365 nm UV for 1 to 2 min, or sunlight

Steps

  1. Engrave the channels; brush out the char and seal with a thin coat of shellac.
  2. Mix powder into the B side thoroughly; degas it in Pour Decisions.
  3. Load the cartridge, fit a mixer and purge 2 mL into a cup.
  4. Swap Glow Diva onto the laser and run the fill path from the same file.
  5. Torch or heat-gun lightly to pop surface bubbles.
  6. Cure, then flush flat with Sandra Paper (180, 220, 320) and finish.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Dim glowToo little powder or too thin a fill; aim for 0.079 in depth and the full ratio.
Powder sinksUse a thicker epoxy or stir and fill within 10 min.
Epoxy bleeds into the grainSeal the channels first.
Mixer clogsMixed epoxy is curing in it: change mixers every 20 min.

Safety

  • Epoxy: nitrile gloves; avoid skin contact (sensitiser).
  • Glow powder: dust mask when weighing.
  • UV LEDs: don't look into them.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

8 parts / $161.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

NEMA17 with integrated Tr8x2 lead screw, 150 mm01NEMA17 with integrated Tr8x2 lead screw, 5 7/8 in$28.00Plunger driveView on Amazon →50 mL 1:1 dual cartridges + plungers, 10-pack0250 mL 1:1 dual cartridges + plungers, 10-pack$25.00Epoxy cartridgesView on Amazon →Static mixers for 50 mL 1:1, 50-pack03Static mixers for 50 mL 1:1, 50-pack$15.00Mixing nozzlesView on Amazon →Strontium aluminate glow powder, 100 g04Strontium aluminate glow powder, 100 g$18.00Glow pigmentView on Amazon →Low-viscosity 1:1 casting epoxy, 32 oz kit05Low-viscosity 1:1 casting epoxy, 32 oz kit$40.00FillView on Amazon →365 nm UV LEDs 5 mm, 20-pack06365 nm UV LEDs 0.2 in, 20-pack$9.00Charging ringView on Amazon →Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)07Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)$6.00ControllerView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg08PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Glow Diva, exploded
Adapter plateSame adapter as Lady Liner and Honey Glaze.cut
Back platePETG-CF, flat on its back.print
Cartridge cradlePETG. Bayonet slot for a 50 mL 1:1 cartridge (MEASURE flange).print
Twin plungerPETG. Captures a T8 brass nut; pushes both pistons equally.print
Motor bracketprint
Uv ringprint

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 3 to 4 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x NEMA17 with integrated Tr8x2 lead screw, 5 7/8 in
  • 1 x 50 mL 1:1 dual cartridges + plungers, 10-pack
  • 1 x Static mixers for 50 mL 1:1, 50-pack
  • 1 x Strontium aluminate glow powder, 100 g
  • 1 x Low-viscosity 1:1 casting epoxy, 32 oz kit
  • 1 x 365 nm UV LEDs 0.2 in, 20-pack
  • 1 x Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • laser/adapter_plate_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/gd_back_plate.stl (printed)
  • stl/gd_cartridge_cradle.stl (printed)
  • stl/gd_twin_plunger.stl (printed)
  • stl/gd_motor_bracket.stl (printed)
  • stl/gd_uv_ring.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Head

Bolt the motor bracket and cartridge cradle to the back plate; fit the NEMA17 lead-screw motor and the twin plunger with its brass nut.

3. UV ring

Solder the eight 365 nm LEDs in two series strings of four with resistors for 12 V; press into the printed ring.

4. Mount

Bolt to the laser on the swap plate.

Wiring

  • Lead-screw motor on a driver stepped by a Nano reading the laser PWM (feed while firing), or on a spare axis if the laser controller has one.
  • UV ring on the air-assist output.

Firmware

  • glow_diva.ino: while PWM is above 20%, step the plunger at the set mL per mm (from the job's speed).

First test

  1. Dispense 10 mL into a cup and weigh it; adjust steps per mL.

Cane-Dace

Seat-weaving rig for Danish paper cord and flat cane.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Finish / gets weaving patterns

Cane-Dace

Cane-dace is a weaver's third hand. The seat frame clamps into a printed jig on a lazy-susan turntable, a stepper turns each side to face you, and a printed cord tower feeds paper cord at an even tension. A foot pedal indexes 90 degrees and the Arduino counts wraps, so every warp lands on its L-nail and the weft matches the pattern Fairy Ring printed on the jig.

How it works

Bare / Woven

Bare
Woven
  1. Drop the seat frame into the four corner cups and tighten the clamp blocks.
  2. Wrap warps front to back over the L-nails. Each pedal press turns the frame 90 degrees and logs the count.
  3. Weave the wefts over-under by hand while the tower keeps tension; the count beeps when a side is done.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Danish cord stool and chair seats; flat-cane and rush seats on the same jig.

Materials

  • 3/16 in (0.2 in) Danish paper cord: a 15 3/4 x 15 3/4 in seat takes about 393.7 to 492.1 ft (one 1 kg reel)
  • L-nails (cord nails) every 0.98 in on the front and back rails' inside faces
  • For cane: binder and strand cane, soaked 15 to 30 min in warm water

Settings

SettingValue
TensionFirm, about 2 to 3 kg on the brake; cord should ring when plucked
Warp groups4 to 6 wraps per L-nail, depending on the design
WeftOver 2 warp groups, under 2, shifting one per row for a herringbone; or 1/1 for a plain weave
Index90 degrees per pedal press
CountSet wraps per side on the controller; it beeps at the target

Steps

  1. Nail the L-nails in, angled 10 degrees outward.
  2. Clamp the frame in the jig and load the reel on the tower.
  3. Tie off the cord at the first nail and wrap the warps, hooking each group on its nail.
  4. Weave the wefts by hand, turning with the pedal; pack each row tight with a blunt stick.
  5. Finish by tucking the end under and tacking it; mist lightly and let it settle overnight.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Saggy seatTension too low or the cord stretched; re-tension the last warps.
Uneven spacingCount was off; the controller log shows which side.
Cord fraysSmooth the rail edges; reduce brake drag slightly.

Safety

  • Keep fingers out of the turntable rim when it indexes.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

11 parts / $139.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

6 in steel lazy-susan bearing, 500 lb016 in steel lazy-susan bearing, 500 lb$9.00Same as VogueView on Amazon →NEMA17 stepper, 40 mm02NEMA17 stepper, 1 9/16 in$12.00Turns the tableView on Amazon →Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)03Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)$6.00ControllerView on Amazon →A4988 driver04A4988 driver$8.00Stepper driverView on Amazon →GT2 6 mm open belt 2 m + 20T pulley05GT2 0.24 in open belt 6.6 ft + 20T pulley$10.00Rim driveView on Amazon →Microswitch with lever, 5-pack06Microswitch with lever, 5-pack$7.00PedalView on Amazon →608ZZ bearings, 10-pack07608ZZ bearings, 10-pack$8.00Cord guideView on Amazon →Danish paper cord 3/16 in, 1 kg08Danish paper cord 3/16 in, 1 kg$40.00Weaving cordView on Amazon →L-nails (Danish cord nails), 10009L-nails (Danish cord nails), 100$10.00Warp anchorsView on Amazon →12 V 2 A supply1012 V 2 A supply$9.00MotorView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg11PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Cane-Dace, exploded
Corner postPETG, 4 off. Screw to the turntable; the cup takes the seat corner.print
Corner postPETG, 4 off. Screw to the turntable; the cup takes the seat corner.print
Corner postPETG, 4 off. Screw to the turntable; the cup takes the seat corner.print
Corner postPETG, 4 off. Screw to the turntable; the cup takes the seat corner.print
Cord towerPETG-CF in 2 halves; spool axle is 5/16 in rod.print
Spool flangesprint
Felt brakeFelt pad on a printed lever, M5 knob sets drag.print
Foot pedalPETG, lever on an M5 bolt pressing a microswitch.print
Controller boxprint

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 4 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Glue
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x 6 in steel lazy-susan bearing, 500 lb
  • 1 x NEMA17 stepper, 1 9/16 in
  • 1 x Arduino Nano (USB-C clone)
  • 1 x A4988 driver
  • 1 x GT2 0.24 in open belt 6.6 ft + 20T pulley
  • 1 x Microswitch with lever, 5-pack
  • 1 x 608ZZ bearings, 10-pack
  • 1 x Danish paper cord 3/16 in, 1 kg
  • 1 x L-nails (Danish cord nails), 100
  • 1 x 12 V 2 A supply
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • stl/cd_corner_post.stl (printed) x 4
  • stl/cd_cord_tower.stl (printed)
  • stl/cd_spool_flanges.stl (printed)
  • stl/cd_felt_brake.stl (printed)
  • stl/cd_foot_pedal.stl (printed)
  • stl/cd_controller_box.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Turntable

Screw the lazy-susan bearing between the base and the 0.47 in ply disc; glue the GT2 belt teeth-out round the disc rim.

3. Motor

Mount the NEMA17 with the 20T pulley meshing the rim belt.

4. Jig

Screw the four corner posts into the slots at your seat's size.

5. Tower

Join the tower halves, fit the axle, felt brake and 608 guide.

6. Pedal and box

Mount the microswitch in the pedal; Nano and A4988 in the box.

Wiring

  • A4988 on the Nano (STEP D3, DIR D4), 12 V motor supply; pedal switch on D2 to ground; buzzer on D8.

Firmware

  • cane_dace.ino: pedal press = turn 90 degrees (rim teeth / 20 x 200 x 16 / 4 steps), count presses and wraps, beep at the target.

First test

  1. Ten presses should bring the table back to the same mark after every 4.

Vogue

Webcam 3D-scanner turntable for photogrammetry (scan pieces, molds, found objects, client parts).

Fairy Ring pipeline / Scan in / gets scans of objects, molds and parts

Vogue

Vogue is a photogrammetry turntable. Put a piece on the platter and she turns it a step at a time while a webcam takes 72 photos from three heights, then free software builds a mesh. Scan finished work for the site and AR, molds and found objects for new pieces, and parts that need a matching fit.

How it works

Object / Mesh

Object
Mesh
  1. A NEMA17 with a 20T pulley drives a GT2 belt glued teeth-out around the platter's rim, so each step is small and exact.
  2. An Arduino turns the platter 15 degrees, pauses, and a Python script on the computer grabs a frame: 24 frames at each of 3 camera heights.
  3. Meshroom (free) or RealityScan turns the photos into a mesh; laser-engraved markers on the platter help it line up the views.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Scans of found objects
Into Fairy Ring to remodel, scale or mirror.
Scans of molds and pours
Check what came out against the model.
Client parts
Measure a part you need to fit something to.
Turntable shots
Even, shadowless photos of finished pieces for the site.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Exact-fit cases Scan a ring or a tool, and Fairy Ring makes a Mother insert or a Skin Tight tray that fits it.

Recipes

Light / surface prep / turning photos into a mesh

Use it for: Photogrammetry scans of pieces, molds, found objects and client parts for the site, AR and Fairy Ring.

Materials

  • Matte scanning spray (AESUB Blue, vanishes in hours) for shiny or dark objects
  • Coded targets printed on the platter (in laser/)
  • Free software: Meshroom (AliceVision) or RealityScan

Settings

SettingValue
Steps per ring36 (every 10 degrees); 72 for fine detail
Rings3 camera heights: 15, 35 and 60 degrees
CameraC920 at 1920 x 1080, manual focus, manual exposure, auto white balance off
LightsBoth Neewer panels at 5600 K, 70%, diffusers on
Settle time0.5 s after each step before the shot

Steps

  1. Spray shiny objects lightly; let it dry 2 minutes.
  2. Centre the object on the platter; set the mast to ring 1.
  3. Run the capture script: it steps, waits, shoots and names files by ring and angle.
  4. Repeat for rings 2 and 3, and once with the object on its side for the base.
  5. Load all photos into Meshroom, run the default pipeline, then decimate and export GLB for the site.
  6. Scale the model with a known dimension (the platter targets are 2 in apart).

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Holes in the meshAdd a ring or more steps; check the object stayed centred.
Mesh is noisyMore light and lower ISO (exposure); spray reflective spots.
Platter shows up in the modelMask it out, or shoot with the platter's matte black cover.

Safety

  • Use scanning spray outdoors or with ventilation.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

Getting a good scan

Light, surface, and photos
You need
LightBoth LED bars on, room lights offflat, no shadows
SurfaceShiny or dark? Dust with scanning spray or dry shampoomatte
Photos24 per ring, 3 rings72
Method
  1. Put a sheet of newspaper on the platter: the print gives the software something to track.
  2. Run the turntable script. Don't move or touch anything.
  3. Load the photos in Meshroom (free) and run the default pipeline.
  4. Clean the mesh in Blender, scale it from a known size, and send it to Fairy Ring.

What to buy

8 parts / $166.95 before tax / estimates, check the links

Walmart01Logitech C920 HD Pro webcam$84.951080p, tripod threadView on Walmart →6 in steel lazy-susan bearing, 500 lb026 in steel lazy-susan bearing, 500 lb$8.00View on Amazon →ZEKOLO GT2 6 mm open belt, 1 m03ZEKOLO GT2 0.24 in open belt, 3.3 ft$7.00Glued teeth-out to the platter rimView on Amazon →CNC Shield V3 + 4 A4988 drivers (plus any Arduino Uno R3)04CNC Shield V3 + 4 A4988 drivers (plus any Arduino Uno R3)$18.00View on Amazon →12 V 2 A supply, UL listed, 5.5 x 2.1 mm0512 V 2 A supply, UL listed, 0.217 x 0.083 in$9.00View on Amazon →Neewer dimmable 5600K USB LED lights, 2-pack06Neewer dimmable 5600K USB LED lights, 2-pack$30.00View on Amazon →uxcell 2020 extrusion 350 mm, 4-pack07uxcell 2020 extrusion 13 3/4 in, 4-pack$10.00Camera mastView on Amazon →AliceVision08Meshroom photogrammetry softwareFree, open sourceView on AliceVision →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Vogue, exploded
Base bottom0.24 in birch ply.cut
Base ringx4, 0.24 in birch ply, glued into a 15/16 in wall.cut
Base top0.24 in birch ply. Centre hole clears the bearing; corner pocket is the motor's.cut
Platter0.24 in ply. Engrave the marker ring from the SVG layer (vg_platter_markers).cut
Motor mountPETG. Pivots on one corner screw; a rubber band pulls the pulley into the rim belt.print
Mast foot0.24 in ply, x3 glued.cut
Mast carriagePETG. Thumb screw locks it at the 3 height marks.print
Cam tiltPETG. 1/4-20 screw for the webcam's tripod thread; 3 tilt detents.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 4 to 5 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Glue for the belt
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x Logitech C920 HD Pro webcam
  • 1 x 6 in lazy-susan bearing
  • 1 x NEMA17 + 20T GT2 pulley (already owned)
  • 1 x GT2 0.24 in open belt, 3.3 ft
  • 1 x Arduino Uno + CNC shield + A4988
  • 1 x 12 V 2 A supply
  • 1 x LED light bars, dimmable, pair
  • 1 x 2020 extrusion 13 3/4 in + T-nuts
  • 1 x Meshroom photogrammetry software

Made:

  • laser/vg_base_bottom_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/vg_base_ring_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/vg_base_top_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/vg_platter_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/vg_motor_mount.stl (printed)
  • laser/vg_mast_foot_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/vg_mast_carriage.stl (printed)
  • stl/vg_cam_tilt.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Base

Glue the three ply base layers; screw the lazy-susan bearing to the base and the platter.

3. Rim belt

Glue the GT2 belt teeth-out around the platter rim with CA; trim the joint square.

4. Motor

Mount the NEMA17 in its printed mount so the 20T pulley meshes the rim belt.

5. Mast

Bolt the 2020 mast to its foot; slide on the carriage and the C920 tilt mount.

6. Lights

Set the two Neewer panels on the back corners, aimed at the platter centre.

Wiring

  • Arduino Uno + CNC shield, A4988 on X for the turntable; 12 V 2 A supply.
  • C920 to the PC by USB.

Firmware

  • GRBL on the Uno with $100 = steps per degree (200 x 16 x (rim teeth / 20) / 360).
  • Capture script: vogue_capture.py (OpenCV) sends G0 X10, waits, grabs a frame.

First test

  1. Turn 360 degrees and check the platter returns to the same mark.
  2. Scan a known box and check its size in the mesh within 0.5%.

Handmaiden

A printed SCARA arm that feeds the printers and the laser.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Serve / gets plate swaps and sheet loading

Handmaiden

Handmaiden is a small printed SCARA arm that serves the machines. With a vacuum gripper she lifts veneer leaves and ply blanks off a stack onto the laser bed, and swaps spring-steel build plates on the printers, so a queue of jobs can run while the shop is empty.

How it works

Waiting / Serving

Waiting
Serving
  1. Two belt-reduced arm joints and a lead-screw Z column give about 14 in of reach and 400 g of payload.
  2. Two bellows suction cups, a small 12 V pump and a valve pick up sheets and plates; a vacuum switch confirms the grip.
  3. A small Python host does the SCARA maths and sends joint moves to a FluidNC board, taking jobs from the same queue as the printers.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Overnight batches
Swaps print plates so 20 mold halves come off in one night.
Sheet loading
Feeds veneer leaves and ply blanks to the laser.
Sorting
Moves finished parts to a shelf by job.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Dip coating Dips small Mother pieces in the Queen Bee wax pot, the same depth and time every time. To test.

Recipes

What she can lift / and how to teach her

Use it for: Loads veneer sheets and printed parts onto the laser bed and printers, and unloads finished pieces.

Materials

  • Flat sheets up to 300 g (veneer, 0.12 in ply, acrylic)
  • Bellows cups need a sealed surface; very porous veneer may need a 2nd cup

Settings

SettingValue
Vacuum thresholdGrip confirmed at -40 kPa or lower
SpeedJoints 90 degrees/s, Z 0.79 in/s
Pick heightCups touch +0.079 in compression
ReleaseValve opens for 0.3 s, then the cups lift

Steps

  1. Stack sheets in the tray, square to the corner posts.
  2. Teach the pick and place points once (jog and save) or load them from the Fairy Ring job.
  3. Run: pick, check vacuum, move, place, release, return.
  4. If the vacuum check fails twice, it stops and asks.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Drops sheetsLeak at a cup: check the M10 threads and add a second cup.
Picks two sheetsFan the stack or add a 0.5 s peel move.
Misses the cornerRe-home; check the arm's set screws.

Safety

  • Keep hands out of the arm's reach while it runs; it does not sense you.
  • E-stop in reach.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

11 parts / $218.51 before tax / estimates, check the links

LM12UU bearings, 10-pack (+ 12 mm x 450 mm rods)01LM12UU bearings, 10-pack (+ 0.47 in x 17 11/16 in rods)$30.00Z columnView on Amazon →YEJMKJ T8 lead screw 400 mm + brass nut, 2-pack02YEJMKJ T8 lead screw 15 3/4 in + brass nut, 2-pack$14.00View on Amazon →StepperOnline03NEMA17 17HS19-2004S1$36.00Qty 3 · Shoulder, elbow, ZView on StepperOnline →GT2 pulleys with closed-loop 6 mm belt (pick 20T; add a 16T)04GT2 pulleys with closed-loop 0.24 in belt (pick 20T; add a 16T)$12.00View on Amazon →608ZZ bearings, 10-pack05608ZZ bearings, 10-pack$8.00View on Amazon →Kingroon06Makerbase MKS DLC32 controller$28.00FluidNCView on Kingroon →SparkFun07SparkFun 12 V vacuum pump ROB-10398$28.51View on SparkFun →uxcell 12 V 3-way mini solenoid valve, 2-pack08uxcell 12 V 3-way mini solenoid valve, 2-pack$10.00Releases the sheetView on Amazon →SAB40 bellows suction cups (M10 male)09SAB40 bellows suction cups (M10 male)$12.00Qty 2 · View on Amazon →XGZP6847 vacuum sensor module, -100 to 0 kPa, 0.5-4.5 V10XGZP6847 vacuum sensor module, -100 to 0 kPa, 0.5-4.5 V$10.00Grip checkView on Amazon →E-stop (22 mm, NC) + 24 V 5 A supply11E-stop (7/8 in, NC) + 24 V 5 A supply$30.00View on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Handmaiden, exploded
Base layerx3, 0.24 in birch ply, glued. Bolt or clamp to the bench.cut
Top platePETG. Holds the rod tops and the Z motor (shaft down).print
Rod footPETG. Screws to the ply base.print
CarriagePETG or ASA, 6 walls. 2 x LM12UU press in; T8 nut screws to the top. MEASURE bearing OD.print
Shoulder pulley 80tPrint with the GT2 80T profile (generate in the CAD engine). Shown simplified.print
Link1PETG, flat, 4 walls, 30% gyroid. 608 bearings at both ends.print
Elbow pulley 64tGT2 64T, printed. Shown simplified.print
Link2PETG, flat. Hollow channel for the vacuum line.print
Cup barPETG. Two 1 9/16 in bellows cups, M10 threads.print
Sheet tray0.24 in ply tray + 4 corner posts; the stack's top is found by the cups' vacuum switch.cut

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 8 to 10 hours plus printing Skill: Medium

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Press for bearings
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 0.039 x 0.47 in rods 17 11/16 in + 4 x LM12UU
  • 1 x T8 lead screw 15 3/4 in + nut
  • 3 x NEMA17 17HS19-2004S1
  • 1 x GT2 closed belts (2) + 20T/16T pulleys
  • 1 x 608 bearings, 10 pack
  • 1 x Makerbase MKS DLC32 controller
  • 1 x SparkFun 12 V vacuum pump ROB-10398
  • 1 x 12 V 3-way solenoid valve
  • 0.079 x 1 9/16 in bellows suction cups, M10
  • 1 x Vacuum switch or XGZP6847 sensor
  • 1 x E-stop + 24 V 5 A supply

Made:

  • laser/hm_base_layer_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/hm_top_plate.stl (printed)
  • stl/hm_rod_foot.stl (printed)
  • stl/hm_carriage.stl (printed)
  • stl/shoulder pulley 80T.stl (printed)
  • stl/hm_link1.stl (printed)
  • stl/elbow pulley 64T.stl (printed)
  • stl/hm_link2.stl (printed)
  • stl/hm_cup_bar.stl (printed)
  • laser/hm_sheet_tray_6mm.dxf (laser)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Column

Fit the 0.47 in rods into the base and top plates; press LM12UU bearings into the Z carriage; add the T8 screw and Z motor.

3. Arm

Press 608 bearings into the links; mount the shoulder and elbow motors with GT2 closed belts.

4. Gripper

Screw the bellows cups into the cup bar; run the vacuum line to the solenoid valve, sensor and pump.

5. Tray and bed

Place the tray and Drag Queen's bed at the taught positions.

Wiring

  • FluidNC ESP32 board: shoulder, elbow and Z drivers, homing switches, pump on a MOSFET, valve on a second MOSFET, XGZP6847 analog to an input.
  • E-stop in series with motor power.

Firmware

  • FluidNC config with axes as joints (degrees); host script does the SCARA maths.
  • Homing: Z up, shoulder and elbow to their switches.

First test

  1. Pick and place one sheet 20 times; it should land within 0.039 in.

Dusty Springfield

Dust collection that opens the right blast gate by itself.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Serve / gets which gates to open

Dusty Springfield

Dusty Springfield keeps the air clean without anyone touching a gate. Current clamps on each tool's cord tell an ESP32 which tool just started; it opens that tool's blast gate with a servo, closes the others and switches on the shop vac, then runs on for 3 seconds after the tool stops. A printed cyclone on a bucket catches the chips before the vac does. The CNC bots can call their own gate over Wi-Fi before they cut.

How it works

Quiet / Breathing

Quiet
Breathing
  1. A tool starts and its current clamp sees the draw.
  2. The ESP32 opens that gate (servo pulls the slide), closes the others and turns on the vac through a relay.
  3. Chips drop in the cyclone bucket, fine dust goes to the vac filter, and the LEDs show which gate is open.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Dust collection for the shop: saws, sanders, routers and the CNC Dancers.

Materials

  • Anti-static hose or a bare copper wire inside the hose, grounded
  • HEPA filter bag in the vac for fine dust

Settings

SettingValue
Current threshold0.5 A above idle starts a tool
Spin-up delay1 s from gate open to vac on
Run-on3 s after the tool stops (10 s for sanders)
Gate travel2 3/8 in (servo 0 to 180 degrees through the linkage)
BucketEmpty at 2/3 full

Steps

  1. Plug each tool through its clamp lead and name it in the config.
  2. Start a tool: the gate opens, the vac starts.
  3. For CNC Dancers, Fairy Ring calls the gate before the job (HTTP: /gate/2/open).
  4. Empty the cyclone bucket weekly; check the vac filter monthly.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Gate doesn't moveServo power too low; use a 5 V 5 A supply, not USB.
False startsRaise the threshold; tools with soft-start ramp slowly.
Weak suctionAnother gate is ajar; check the slides seal; seal joints with foil tape.

Safety

  • Static shocks in plastic ducting: ground the wire.
  • Fine dust (MDF, walnut) is a health hazard; HEPA filter and a mask still apply.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

9 parts / $165.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

2.5 in aluminium blast gates, 3-pack012.5 in aluminium blast gates, 3-pack$25.00GatesView on Amazon →MG996R servos, 4-pack02MG996R servos, 4-pack$25.00Gate drivesView on Amazon →SCT-013-030 current clamps03SCT-013-030 current clamps$24.00Qty 3 · Tool sensingView on Amazon →ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)04ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)$8.00Controller with Wi-Fi so Fairy Ring can log and call itView on Amazon →15 A relay module (or smart plug)0515 A relay module (or smart plug)$8.00Vac on/offView on Amazon →5 V 5 A supply065 V 5 A supply$12.00ServosView on Amazon →2.5 in hose 10 ft + fittings (wye, couplers)072.5 in hose 10 ft + fittings (wye, couplers)$35.00DuctingView on Amazon →5 gal bucket with lid085 gal bucket with lid$8.00Cyclone binView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg09PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →
1 optional extras
5 gal shop vac015 gal shop vac (optional)$60.00Suction (skip if owned)View on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Dusty Springfield, exploded
Servo bracketPETG-CF, 3 off. Hose-clamps to the gate collar.print
Linkageprint
Servo bracketPETG-CF, 3 off. Hose-clamps to the gate collar.print
Linkageprint
Servo bracketPETG-CF, 3 off. Hose-clamps to the gate collar.print
Linkageprint
CyclonePETG, prints in 3 rings. 2.5 in tangential inlet, 2.5 in top outlet.print
Cyclone lidprint
Controller boxHolds the ESP32, relay and three clamp jacks.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 5 to 6 hours plus printing Skill: Easy to medium

Tools

  • Hacksaw for pipe
  • Hex keys
  • Foil tape
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x 2.5 in aluminium blast gates, 3-pack
  • 1 x MG996R servos, 4-pack
  • 3 x SCT-013-030 current clamps
  • 1 x ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)
  • 1 x 15 A relay module (or smart plug)
  • 1 x 5 V 5 A supply
  • 1 x 2.5 in hose 10 ft + fittings (wye, couplers)
  • 1 x 5 gal shop vac (optional)
  • 1 x 5 gal bucket with lid
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • stl/ds_servo_bracket.stl (printed) x 3
  • stl/ds_linkage.stl (printed) x 3
  • stl/ds_cyclone.stl (printed)
  • stl/ds_cyclone_lid.stl (printed)
  • stl/ds_controller_box.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Wall board

Screw the 11/16 in ply board to studs at about 19 11/16 in.

3. Manifold

Hang the 2.5 in pipe on printed clips, add the wyes and drops, seal joints with foil tape.

4. Gates

Fit the blast gates in the drops; clamp a servo bracket to each; connect the linkages to the slides.

5. Cyclone

Stack the three printed rings on the bucket lid; hoses from the manifold to the inlet and from the outlet to the vac.

6. Controller

Mount the box with the ESP32, relay, supply and clamp jacks.

Wiring

  • Servos on GPIO 13, 14, 27 with the 5 V 5 A supply (common ground).
  • Current clamps through 33 ohm burden resistors to ADC pins 32, 33, 34 (bias at 1.65 V).
  • Vac relay on GPIO 26.

Firmware

  • dusty_springfield.ino or ESPHome: read RMS current per clamp, open/close gates, vac relay with spin-up and run-on, HTTP endpoints for the CNC Dancers.

First test

  1. Start each tool in turn: only its gate opens and the vac follows within a second.

Moisture Madame

Lumber drying rack that weighs every board and says when it's ready.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Serve / gets boards to dry and weigh

Moisture Madame

Moisture Madame knows when the wood is ready. Each shelf of the drying rack rests on four load cells, so Fairy Ring watches every stack lose water by weight, day by day. A pin meter calibrates day one, an SHT31 logs the room, and each shelf's LED turns green when its boards reach the target moisture content, 6 to 8% for furniture.

How it works

Wet / Ready

Wet
Ready
  1. Sticker the boards on a shelf, take one pin-meter reading and weigh the stack; Fairy Ring estimates the oven-dry weight from that.
  2. The load cells log the weight every hour. Moisture = (current weight / oven-dry weight - 1) x 100.
  3. The shelf LED goes from amber to green at the target MC, and the board list on Fairy Ring marks them ready.

Recipes

Materials / settings / what to do when it goes wrong

Use it for: Drying lumber to a known moisture content before it becomes furniture.

Materials

  • Boards stickered 3/4 in apart with stickers every 15 3/4 in, ends sealed (Anchorseal or wax)
  • A pin meter for the day-one reading

Settings

SettingValue
Target MC6 to 8% for indoor furniture in most of the US; 9 to 11% in humid regions
Room40 to 50% RH, 18 to 75 °F for indoor final drying
LoggingEvery hour
Oven-dry weightODW = weight on day one / (1 + MC on day one / 100)
MC nowMC = (weight now / ODW - 1) x 100
Rule of thumbAir-drying takes about a year per 0.98 in outdoors to 12 to 15%, then weeks indoors

Steps

  1. Weigh in: put a stack on a shelf and tare-free log it.
  2. Take three pin-meter readings on one board (ends, middle) and enter the average.
  3. Leave it; the shelf LED is amber while it dries.
  4. When the LED goes green, re-check one board with the pin meter.
  5. Move the boards to the shop to acclimatise a week before milling.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Readings jumpLoad cell touching the arm; check saddles, re-zero.
Ends checkingSeal ends better; slow drying (raise room RH).
Never reaches targetRoom too humid; dehumidify or set a realistic target.

Safety

  • Wall-mount the uprights; a loaded rack is heavy and can tip.
  • Don't exceed 150 kg per shelf.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

What to buy

10 parts / $204.50 before tax / estimates, check the links

50 kg bar load cells, 4-pack + HX7110150 kg bar load cells, 4-pack + HX711$36.00Qty 3 · One set per shelfView on Amazon →ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)02ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)$8.00Controller with Wi-Fi so Fairy Ring can log and call itView on Amazon →SHT31 humidity sensor module03SHT31 humidity sensor module$8.00Room RH and temperatureView on Amazon →Pin-type wood moisture meter04Pin-type wood moisture meter$25.00Day-one calibrationView on Amazon →Bicolour LEDs 5 mm, 20-pack05Bicolour LEDs 0.2 in, 20-pack$6.00Shelf statusView on Amazon →Home Depot062x4 x 8 ft studs$13.50Qty 3 · Uprights and baseView on Home Depot →Home Depot071/2 in ply, 2 x 4 ft$36.00Qty 2 · ShelvesView on Home Depot →5 V 2 A USB supply085 V 2 A USB supply$7.00ESP32View on Amazon →6 mm birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack090.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack$45.00Laser-cut partsView on Amazon →PETG filament 1 kg10PETG filament 1 kg$20.00Printed partsView on Amazon →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Moisture Madame, exploded
Arm0.24 in ply, cut 12 and glue in pairs (0.47 in). Screws into the uprights.cut
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
Cell saddlePETG, 12 off. Lifts the shelf off the arm onto the cell's free end.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
StickerPETG, 3/4 in tall with a ribbed top, 9 per shelf.print
Controller podScrews to the right upright; vented bottom for the SHT31.print

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 5 hours plus printing Skill: Easy

Tools

  • Saw
  • Drill
  • Screws
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 3 x 50 kg bar load cells, 4-pack + HX711
  • 1 x ESP32 DevKit (30-pin)
  • 1 x SHT31 humidity sensor module
  • 1 x Pin-type wood moisture meter
  • 1 x Bicolour LEDs 0.2 in, 20-pack
  • 3 x 2x4 x 8 ft studs
  • 2 x 1/2 in ply, 2 x 4 ft
  • 1 x 5 V 2 A USB supply
  • 0.039 x 0.24 in birch ply, 12 x 24 in, 6-pack
  • 1 x PETG filament 1 kg
  • 1 x M3/M4/M5 screws, nuts and inserts (already owned)

Made:

  • laser/mm_arm_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/mm_cell_saddle.stl (printed) x 12
  • stl/mm_sticker.stl (printed) x 18
  • stl/mm_controller_pod.stl (printed)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Uprights

Screw the 2x4 uprights to the base rail and to the wall studs.

3. Arms

Glue the ply arm pairs and screw them to the uprights at 5 1/2, 16 9/16 and 27.6 in.

4. Cells

Bolt four load cells per shelf to the arms, fixed end down; printed saddles on the free ends.

5. Shelves

Set the 0.47 in ply shelves on the saddles; they must only touch the saddles.

6. Electronics

HX711 per shelf, ESP32 and SHT31 in the pod, LEDs at the shelf fronts.

Wiring

  • Each shelf: four cells wired as a full bridge into one HX711 (E+, E-, A+, A-).
  • HX711 DOUT/SCK pairs to ESP32 GPIO 16/17, 18/19, 21/22; SHT31 on a second I2C bus.
  • Bicolour LEDs on PWM pins.

Firmware

  • moisture_madame.ino (or ESPHome): tare per shelf, calibrate with a known 10 kg weight, compute MC from ODW, MQTT to Fairy Ring.

First test

  1. Put a 10 kg weight on each shelf: reading within 20 g.

Lazarella

Filament and wax recycler.

Fairy Ring pipeline / Recycle / gets failed prints and wax scraps

Lazarella

Lazarella brings failures back. Failed prints, supports and purge go through a shredder with laser-cut steel blades, then a small screw extruder turns the chips into new 0.069 in filament on a spool. In wax mode she melts Queen Bee's scraps and refills her syringes.

How it works

Scrap / Spool

Scrap
Spool
  1. Shred: scraps go through laser-cut steel blades into small chips.
  2. Extrude: a wood-auger screw in a heated steel pipe melts the chips and pushes them out of a 0.069 in nozzle; fans cool the strand.
  3. Pull and spool: a printed puller sets the diameter by its speed and a spooler winds it. In wax mode, the barrel runs at 65 to 158 °F and fills Queen Bee's syringes.

What it can make

Products / and less obvious uses

Recycled filament
PLA and PETG from failed prints and supports.
Wax refills
Scrap beeswax straight back into Queen Bee's syringes.
Wax rods
Extruded beeswax for candles and wax-working.

Tricks worth trying

  1. Terrazzo filament Mixed-colour scrap ground together prints as speckled stone. To test.
  2. Wood-fill from the shop Fine sanding dust from the wood path blended into PLA. To test.

Recipes

Plastic by plastic / drying / the remelt loop

Use it for: Failed prints and supports back into filament, and wax scraps back into Queen Bee's syringes.

Materials

  • Clean PLA or PETG regrind, one type and colour per run, dried
  • Wax scraps (casting wax) for the wax mode
  • 0.069 in brass nozzle

Settings

SettingValue
PLA barrelFeed zone 347 °F, nozzle zone 365 °F
PETG barrel428 °F / 446 °F
Wax75 to 185 °F, puller off, syringe on the nozzle
Auger speed8 to 15 rpm
Target diameter0.069 in, +/- 0.002 in (adjust puller speed)
Drying firstPLA 122 °F for 4 h, PETG 149 °F for 4 h in Hot Flash

Steps

  1. Shred prints into chips under 0.2 in; sieve out dust.
  2. Dry the chips in Hot Flash.
  3. Heat the barrel 15 minutes to temperature before turning the auger.
  4. Start the auger, catch the first 6.6 ft (purge), then thread the strand through the fans, puller and spooler.
  5. Adjust puller speed until the width gauge reads 0.069 in; then leave it.
  6. Spool, label with material and date, and store with desiccant.

Troubleshooting

ProblemFix
Bubbly filamentWet chips; dry longer.
Diameter wandersUneven chip size; sieve, and keep the hopper half full.
Brown streaksToo hot or too slow; drop 5 C.
Auger stallsFeed zone too cold or chips too big.

Safety

  • Hot barrel, 446 °F; let it cool fully before touching.
  • Ventilate: melting plastic gives off fumes, especially PETG.
  • Never put PVC, ABS mixed with PLA, or unknown plastics in.

Numbers are starting points. Run one test piece on every new batch of material.

Plastic by plastic

One plastic per batch, always
You need
PLAMost failed prints347 to 365 °F
PETGDry first, 4 h at 149 °F428 to 446 °F
Wax scrapBack into Queen Bee cubes149 to 158 °F
Method
  1. Sort scrap by plastic and colour into labeled bins. Mixed plastic makes weak filament.
  2. Shred, then sieve out dust and big chunks.
  3. Dry the flakes. Wet PETG foams and snaps.
  4. Extrude slowly and let the puller and gauge hold 0.069 in.
  5. Check the diameter every metre for the first spool, and print a calibration cube before trusting it.
If it goes wrong
Diameter wanders
Feed is uneven. Sieve tighter, keep the hopper full.
Brittle filament
Too hot, or recycled too many times. Mix one part new pellets to two parts scrap.
Bubbles
Wet plastic. Dry longer.

Shredder blades take fingers. Feed with a stick, never by hand. Extruding plastic gives off fumes: run it under the extractor or by an open window.

What to buy

9 parts / $164.00 before tax / estimates, check the links

uxcell 12 V worm gearmotor, 15 rpm, 20 kg·cm01uxcell 12 V worm gearmotor, 15 rpm, 20 kg·cm$30.00Extruder driveView on Amazon →5/8 x 12 in ship auger bit, 3/8 in hex shank025/8 x 12 in ship auger bit, 3/8 in hex shank$15.00ScrewView on Amazon →Home Depot033/4 in x 8 in black steel pipe nipple$8.00BarrelView on Home Depot →Mica band heaters 25 x 25 mm, 2-pack (lowest stocked is 70 W; run it under the PID)04Mica band heaters 0.98 x 0.98 in, 2-pack (lowest stocked is 70 W; run it under the PID)$24.00Qty 2 · View on Amazon →REX-C100 PID kit with 25 A SSR and K thermocouple05REX-C100 PID kit with 25 A SSR and K thermocouple$30.00Qty 2 · View on Amazon →51104 thrust ball bearing, 20 x 35 x 10 mm0651104 thrust ball bearing, 0.79 x 1 3/8 x 0.39 in$6.00View on Amazon →WINSINN 4010 12 V fans, 2-pack07WINSINN 4010 12 V fans, 2-pack$18.00Qty 2 · View on Amazon →Female Luer-lock to 1/8 NPT male, brass, 2-pack08Female Luer-lock to 1/8 NPT male, brass, 2-pack$8.00Wax modeView on Amazon →Mean Well LRS-350-24 supply09Mean Well LRS-350-24 supply$25.00View on Amazon →
2 optional extras
Filament width sensor01Filament width sensor (optional)$15.00Closes the loop laterView on Amazon →SendCutSend02Shredder blades + spacers, 0.2 in steel (28 parts) (optional)$90.00From the DXFs hereView on SendCutSend →

What to make

Printed on the printers you have / cut on the xTool or sent out

Lazarella, exploded
Base0.47 in birch ply (or 0.079 x 0.24 in glued).cut
Motor bracketPETG or ASA, 6 walls. MEASURE the gearmotor's flange.print
Thrust blockASA. Holds a 51104 thrust bearing; the auger pushes back hard.print
Barrel standPC or PETG-CF, x2. The slot is a heat break; never let it touch a heater.print
HopperPETG, upright, no supports. Saddles the barrel above the feed slot.print
Fan standPETG.print
Puller framePETG. The top roller's arm is sprung (rubber band) onto the filament.print
Spool uprightx2, 0.24 in ply.cut
Shredder bladex14, 0.2 in mild steel or AR400 via a laser service. 7/8 in hex bore. Alternate with spacers on a hex shaft.cut
Shredder spacerx14, 0.2 in steel. Offsets the two blade stacks.cut

Build guide

Tools / parts / every step, start to finish

Open the full build guide

Time: 8 hours plus printing Skill: Medium: mains wiring for the heaters (or have it checked)

Tools

  • Hex keys
  • Pipe wrench
  • Drill and bits
  • Soldering iron

Parts

Bought (full list with links in the README and buy_list.csv):

  • 1 x 12 V worm gearmotor, about 15 rpm, high torque
  • 1 x 5/8 in x 12 in wood auger bit
  • 1 x 3/4 in x 8 in black steel pipe nipple
  • 2 x Band heaters 0.98 to 1 3/32 in ID, 40 W
  • 2 x PID controller kit (REX-C100, SSR, K thermocouple)
  • 1 x 51104 thrust bearing
  • 0.079 x 1 9/16 in 12 V fans
  • 1 x NEMA17 + A4988 + Arduino Nano (already owned)
  • 1 x Filament width sensor (optional)
  • 1 x Shredder blades + spacers, 0.2 in steel (28 parts) (optional)
  • 1 x 1/8 NPT to Luer-lock adapter, brass
  • 1 x 24 V 10 A supply

Made:

  • laser/lz_base_12mm.dxf (laser)
  • stl/lz_motor_bracket.stl (printed)
  • stl/lz_thrust_block.stl (printed)
  • stl/lz_barrel_stand.stl (printed)
  • stl/lz_hopper.stl (printed)
  • stl/lz_fan_stand.stl (printed)
  • stl/lz_puller_frame.stl (printed)
  • laser/lz_spool_upright_6mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/lz_shredder_blade_5mm.dxf (laser)
  • laser/lz_shredder_spacer_5mm.dxf (laser)

Steps

1. Print and cut

Print every STL in stl/ (PETG unless the part note says otherwise, 0.008 in layers, 4 walls, 30 to 40% gyroid). Cut every file in laser/ on Drag Queen. Check every MEASURE note in the README against your actual parts before printing the parts they touch.

2. Barrel

Cut the 3/4 in pipe to 7 7/8 in; drill and file the feed slot; thread the nozzle end.

3. Auger

Cut the 5/8 in ship auger bit to length; fit the thrust bearing in its block.

4. Drive

Mount the worm gearmotor so its output couples to the auger's hex.

5. Heat

Clamp the band heaters and thermocouple; wire the PID and SSR.

6. Puller and spooler

Assemble the rubber-faced rollers on the NEMA17 puller; mount the spooler.

Wiring

  • REX-C100 PID, SSR and band heaters on mains with a fuse and earth on the barrel.
  • Gearmotor on a 12 V PWM board; puller NEMA17 on a driver with a speed knob.

Firmware

  • PID autotune (AT) at 365 °F with the auger turning.

First test

  1. Run 200 g of new PLA pellets before any regrind; measure diameter every 19 11/16 in.

Why make it this way

Studies and research / what the materials cost the planet

Every dancer was picked to waste less: thin veneer instead of solid stock, grown parts instead of foam, clay formwork that washes off and gets reused, and failed prints that become new filament. Here is the research behind those choices.

8%of global CO₂

Cement is the binder in concrete, and making it releases about 8% of the world's CO₂. That's why Mud Diva prints thin, only where the part needs it, into clay formwork that is washed off and reused.
Chatham House, Making Concrete Change (2018) →

Grownnot made

Mycelium composites are fungal root grown through farm waste like hemp hurd. Reviews find them low-energy to make, light, insulating, and compostable at the end of their life, with weak points too: they soak up water and aren't structural. Mother uses them for shapes, packaging and insulating forms, sealed when they'll see water.
Jones et al., Materials & Design (2020), engineered mycelium composites review →

How you grow itchanges what you get

How the mycelium is fed, packed and pressed changes how strong, dense and water resistant it ends up. That's why Mother packs every mold by weight, and why the drying is tested.
Appels et al., Materials & Design (2019) →

3 to 80%+less energy

Turning waste plastic into filament at home, rather than making new filament in a factory, saved from 3% to over 80% of the energy, depending on where you live and how the power is made.
Kreiger, Mulder, Glover & Pearce, Journal of Cleaner Production (2014) →

½the energy

Pairing a recyclebot with a 3D printer in the same shop, so failed prints become new filament, cut the embodied energy of the parts in half and their cost to pennies. Lazarella is that loop.
Zhong & Pearce, Resources, Conservation & Recycling (2018) →

~9%of plastic is recycled

Only about 9% of the world's plastic waste is recycled. The rest is burned, landfilled or leaks into the environment. Keeping shop plastic in a loop is a small piece of that.
OECD, Global Plastics Outlook (2022) →

Thingoes further

Simple arithmetic: a 1 in board resawn as solid stock gives two faces, but sliced into veneer about 0.024 in thick it gives dozens of leaves, each one a full face. Figured and rare woods go furthest that way, which is why Drag Queen works in veneer.

Poundsnot tons

A hive makes only a pound or two of wax a year, and bees eat a lot of honey to make it. Queen Bee's wax is precious, so every brim and failed print gets remelted, and casting work leans on the 80 / 20 blend.
FAO, Value-added products from beekeeping →

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